Make your own abaya

One big advantage of making your own clothes is that you can use better and more healthy materials as the synthetic ones so often used for abayas nowadays. If your surroundings are not very hot, you can get away with a good cotton, or even better, a nice linen. Linen is ideal, it can retain far more moisture as cotton, therefore it will be feeling cool. In a really hot environment a light silk would be the best choice. Silk is usually very expensive, but that is a market mechanism. To buy in bulk, a decent silk doesn’t cost much more as a good cotton. So do shop around! Because of it’s luxury reputation, the shops put a much larger margin on it, making it more expensive. It might also be a good idea to buy a cheaper undyed material, and dye it in the color of your choice. With delicate materials it is best to try a small piece first. Dupioni silk is usually fairly cheap, but it looks a bit stiff. I do like the rough texture though, and you can get it in all sorts of colors, and in pretty changeant weaves too.


Article & Copy Rights: 
by thuriayaa
http://sewing4rlife.blogspot.ae
BUY Sewing/Embroidery machines / Software's from http://shop.al-borj.com

Fastenings:
You can use snaps, hooks, zippers, buttons or velcro, it is your own choice. Velcro may sound easy, but has spelled doom for many a pretty delicate shayla. I think the easiest option is buttons, and, instead of making the quite complicated buttonholes, make a loop, use a bit of nice ribbon, or cord. If you use a different color it will be a decorative feature.

Measurements of the patterns:
I can’t give exact measurements on these designs, you have to find out your own measurements. The measurements you need are in the drawing underneath. Instead of experimenting on some beautiful material, I suggest you buy some very cheap cloth, like an unbleached cotton, and stitch it loosely, or even just pin it together, try it on and make changes as you like. Once your try-out is to your liking, you unpin or pick out the stitching, and you can then use the pieces of material for your own perfectly fitting pattern.
If your pattern is precisely cut on your finished dress/abaya, make sure you allow an extra 1,5 cm for stitching and edging the material. I would not line an abaya, because you use it over your clothes in mostly hot countries, so to add even extra material would be even more suffocating. If you add a lining for effect you could choose to only line the bottom of your abaya or sleeves.

Above you see an example on how you could lay out the pattern on your material. lay out your pieces, and move them around until you have them placed as economically as possible. Note down how much material you need, handy to know, especially if you plan on buying an expensive material next time. Most cloth comes at a width of 1.50 meter. Some more exclusive materials are only 1,20 wide. In that case you can’t slip in the sleeves at the sides, and you need 2× your length, #5. And 1× your sleeve length, #2.

These are the measurements you need, work them out for yourself, and make a trial-abaya which you can unpick, or cut up, and use as your personal pattern. Draw the pattern on your real material with special tailor chalk. The sleeve on pattern #1 is a wide sleeve, but if you draw the line to the seam you get a fitted sleeve. This also shows how you can make variations, once you have a good pattern. I only use basic patterns myself, and chance them when drawing them with chalk on the material for the design of a specific garment I’m making.
Pattern #1 and #2 have an overlapping front. You can easily adapt #1 so it won’t overlap. If you use an overlapping front, you nee to put in at least two extra buttons or snaps on the inside, to keep the bottom layer of cloth from sagging down. On pattern #1 you can see three light doth which are sugestions for the inside buttons or snaps.

This second pattern is really a Japanese kimono. This is a véry simple pattern and should be well in reach of everybody who would like to try and make something. Simple forms are also a nice canvas for your own decorations.

With the kimono pattern, you don’t have to be careful with the shoulder seam, it’s supposed to slip from the shoulder a bit. You can make a much wider kimono, by cutting the front and back-panels for a much wider shoulder, and then create three folds which you stitch for about 25cm.

Pattern #3 is a very simple basic traditional butterfly design. Not handy in daily life, but very pretty. You can decorate the sleeve cuffs, or even make them of a different material. Like a Chinese brocade.
Once you have tried making one of these, experiment with different cuts, or try your hand at adding some nice decorations. In part 2 I will give some ideas for decorating your abaya. (or anything else)

How to Make Headbands Out of Shirts

Celtic knots represent infinity and eternity because they don't contain beginnings or ends. In ancient times, if a gift was adorned with a Celtic knot, it was thought to give the recipient longevity or good luck in new adventures. This no-sew headband is made with a Shannon knot, which symbolizes balanced creativity, a fitting emblem because it makes creative use of old T-shirts. You have to see how easy this is! Watch the video below.

To Buy Sewing Machines follow the link: https://shop.al-borj.com Source & Copy Rights: By Beth Huntington (eHow)
Celtic knot headband (Images: Beth Huntington)

Choose a large T-shirt in your desired color. (Image: Beth Huntington)

Step 1

Use sharp scissors to cut two 1 1/2-inch wide strips across both layers of the T-shirt. Do not use the hemmed bottom edge of the shirt. Each strip will have two layers.

Cut two strips from the T-shirt. (Image: Beth Huntington)

Step 2

Stretch the strips. Do not unfold the two layers. Grab each end and pull tightly until the strip rolls into itself.

Pull the strips tightly. (Image: Beth Huntington)

Step 3

Create a loop with one of the strips by crossing the right side over the left side. Keep the loop at the top.

Create a loop. (Image: Beth Huntington)

Step 4

Lay the second strip in a U-shape on top of the first strip. Place the ends at the top.

Add the second strip. (Image: Beth Huntington)

Step 5

Place the right side of the top piece under the right side of the bottom piece.

Weave the right side of the top piece under the bottom piece. (Image: Beth Huntington)

Step 6

Place the left side of the top piece under the loop of the bottom piece.

Weave the left side of the top piece under the bottom loop. (Image: Beth Huntington)

Step 7

Place the right side of the top piece over the loop of the bottom piece, passing under the left side of the top piece and then over the other side of the loop.

Pull the right side of the top piece through. (Image: Beth Huntington)

Step 8

Pull on each end gently and slowly until a neat knot is created and you have loose strips of fabric on each side of the knot.

Pull the ends to create the knot. (Image: Beth Huntington)

Step 9

Wrap the strips around the head of the person who will be wearing the headband to mark where to cut the ends. Or measure the person's head circumference and cut the ends to that length. Cut a 2 1/2-by-3 1/2-inch piece of T-shirt and place both ends of the headband on top.

Place the ends on top of the 2 1/2-by-3 1/2-inch piece. (Image: Beth Huntington)

Step 10

Spread some hot glue onto the tops of the headband ends.

Tip

• You could use fabric glue instead of hot glue, but it will take longer for the glue to dry.

Use hot glue on the headband ends. (Image: Beth Huntington)

Step 11

Roll the 2 1/2-by-3 1/2-inch piece of T-shirt tightly around the glued ends of the headband. Use caution when rolling the fabric to avoiding burning your fingers.

Roll the small piece of fabric around the glued ends. (Image: Beth Huntington)

Step 12

Let the glue dry for a few minutes, slip the headband on and enjoy some balanced creativity of your own.

How to make your own jeans

How to make your own jeans

Article Copy Rights By Karen Ball.

Most people are familiar with horror of shopping for a new pair of jeans. One sewing blogger decided to take matters into her own hands, and make her own. Did she discover the modern woman's holy grail – a perfectly fitting pair of jeans?


Photograph: Karen Ball

Jeans. Denim. Strides. They’re the ubiquitous fashion statement that transcends gender, class, style and generation. From gold-rush frontierland to the modern high street, we’re all meant to want them, wear them and spend a lot of money on them. So why are they so difficult to look good in? My fellow blogger, Grey Fox, recently touched on a similar topic in his post about jeans and the middle-aged man. Jeans are hard to wear!

In my experience, a good fit doesn’t equate with the money you spend. I’ve forked out anything from a tenner to the best part of eighty quid on a pair of jeans, and it’s rare that I’ve ever been satisfied with my indigo-dyed, rugged cotton twill.

Is there hope out there in denimland? Blogger Yes I Like That thinks so. She turned to Burda, a German sewing pattern company, and used their pattern as an experiment to see if she could make a pair of jeans to suit her body.

I asked Kathryn to tell us – had sewing jeans changed her life, or just her wardrobe?

Why did you decide to sew your own pair of jeans?

Kathryn: It felt like the ultimate sewing challenge. I wanted to see if I could make a pair of jeans that fits me. I’m pear-shaped with a really long torso, so jeans shopping is always a bit of an ordeal. I’m also trying to move towards a 90% handmade wardrobe. I love the idea of being able to make my whole outfit myself!

How did you start the process of choosing a pattern and fabric?

K: The only ready to wear (RTW) jeans that fit me are straight-legged and made of stretch denim, so I knew I wanted a similar pattern. I was very inspired by the Australian blogger Handmade by Carolyn, who’s made several excellent versions of the Burda 7863 pattern, so it was an easy choice to give it a try. Burda patterns have notoriously bad instructions, though, so I relied on web tutorials to get the fly zipper right.

Fabric is a bit of a problem; it’s tricky to find the right stuff. I’d love to see more coloured stretch denim and twill in fabric shops. The fabric for my first pair was not ideal – really you want something very stretchy and light – but I had to work with what I could find.

What were the challenges of sewing with denim?

K: I’ve only used stretch denim and twill, which is not as heavy as your classic Levi’s-style denim fabric, but it can still be challenging to work with. The absolute worst bit is the topstitching. Each pair of jeans uses three spools of topstitching thread, and you’re often trying to force the needle through more than six layers of fabric. It’s incredibly frustrating when your needle starts skipping and the thread tangles in a big knot, but I think topstitching adds the finishing touch, so I probably wouldn’t skip it.

What are your tips for making a pair of jeans that actually fit?

K: Well, I’m definitely not an expert. My first two pairs of jeans have some severe fit problems but they’re comfortable and I wear them a lot anyway. My top tips would be:

• Expect to make a few pairs to perfect the fit, unless you are shaped like a coathanger.

• Compare your pattern to an existing pair of jeans you already own that fit well; just lay the pattern on top and you’ll be able to see if it’s going to be radically different.

• Choose a pattern that has an adjustable back waistband seam (such as the Burda one). This helps a lot if RTW jeans normally gape at your back waist.

• Fit as you sew! Baste them together and try them on before you topstitch. Unpicking that stuff is not fun. Ask me how I know …

• Get a willing assistant to take photos from the back to diagnose the fit. You’ll never be able to see what they look like by twisting round in front of the mirror.

Even though none of my homemade jeans fit perfectly, I still wear them. I think as sewers we can get obsessed with diagnosing fitting wrinkles, but at the end of the day, stretch jeans are never going to fit like a pair of tailored wool trousers.

What advice would you give readers about sewing their own jeans?

K: Give it a try! You’ll learn a lot and, if it works out, your smugness levels will go through the roof. I recommend making your first pair in a dark-wash denim fabric; it hides a multitude of sins. Also, practise making a fly zipper first. It can seem like strange fabric origami the first time you try it.

What is your take on the jeans industry now that you’ve made your own?

K: The production of jeans is very hard on the environment and on workers, so it feels good to take control over at least part of the process. My jeans are not made from fair trade or organic cotton, so I’m still supporting the commercial textiles industry, but at least I know exactly who sewed them (me) and in what conditions (messy sewing room, teabreak every half hour).

Thanks, Kathryn. I agree that quality denim fabric is hard to find, though I’ve seen some lovely denims at Stone Fabrics and Our Patterned Hand (now closed). If you’re buying denim for the first time, it’s a good idea to keep an eye on how stiff the fabric is. I’d recommend using a lighter denim with at least some softness and drape. You may also need to use a denim needle on your machine and heavy-duty topstitching thread. You could even go to town with rivets and decorative stitching!

What do you think, readers? Would you make your own pair of jeans? Do you have tips of your own?

How to Salvage Damaged Clothing: Tips and Tricks

 
Getting rid of clothing may be hard to do when the garment is fairly new or it's an article of clothing you really like. Sometimes it takes time and luck to find clothing that looks fantastic on you and fits well so you may really want to avoid throwing it away. With a little creativity and some basic sewing knowledge, you can salvage damaged clothing and even enhance the way your clothes look. Use these sewing tips to get you started and back into the clothes you’d rather not throw away.
 
Small Holes

Sometimes a small hole in an article of clothing can suddenly appear without you ever knowing how, or why, it got there. Often, a tiny hole in a garment is barely visible, but a hole barely there is still a hole that can detract from the appearance of a blouse, or a pair of slacks. To cover the open area and add some glitz to the garment at the same time, apply a spot of fabric glue to the back of a rhinestone and glue the shiny stone over the hole. Rhinestones look fabulous on satin and on denim jeans. After gluing the rhinestone in place, add additional rhinestones to the garment to create a design, if you like.

Large Holes

Cutting pants at or above the knee with a pair of scissors can easily eliminate large holes that appear in the bottom area of the pants. After removing the damaged area, you can then hem the pants. Consider trimming the pants with a piece of decorative trim while you’re at it. Although the pants will be shorter, you will still be able to wear them.
 

Frayed Sleeves

If the edges of the sleeves on a long-sleeved shirt are no longer fit to be worn, make the sleeves shorter to eliminate the unsightly frayed edges. Hem the edge of the altered sleeves to create a clean finish. Wear the shirt under a sweater if you prefer long sleeves.
 

Stains and Worn Out Areas

Depending on where the stain or worn out area is located, sewing an appliqué over the damaged area can be an excellent way to make a garment wearable again. Position your appliqué directly over the stain or worn out area and sew the appliqué on with a needle and thread that matches the edges of the appliqué. Note that some appliqués can be sewn on while others can be applied using a warm iron. Shop for the appliqué that best suites your needs and desires.

Bad Sewing Habits: It’s Time For a Change

 

Everyone has bad habits. Whether you aren't the best housekeeper, you cut corners on your work projects or you eat unhealthy foods while you are supposed to be dieting, everyone has bad habits. If those bad habits are part of your sewing experience, however, it may be time to say goodbye to them. Hopefully, you also have some good sewing habits that are helpful to your efforts. Below is a list of some bad sewing habits that people who sew tend to develop. If you have one or more of these habits, it may be a good idea to work toward changing the habit into a good one instead.
 
Thread Storage: Is Your Thread Out in Plain Sight?
Many novice sewers tend to leave thread out on the table. Even if you opt for a basket or small box that looks organized, it is still open to the air and the dust and lint that regularly floats through the room. In order to keep thread free of dust and avoid clogs to the sewing machine, thread should be stored in a sealed container.
 
Fabric: Do You Know What You Have Stashed at Home?
Some crafters choose to head to the fabric store and see what they can find. However, if you do this and don't check your current inventory at home, you may end up with fabric you already purchased. This means money spent on fabric you still may not have determined is good for a project. This means you have a lot of fabric laying around and no use for it.
 
Work Ethic: Do You Take Breaks or Work for Hours on End?
If you work on a lot of projects, you may get sucked into the project at hand and forget to take breaks. While this may seem like a good habit to be in, it actually is bad for you and the sewing machine. This isn't even considering the other household tasks you miss or meals you don't make. Hours at the sewing machine means your eyes get tired, your hands start to hurt and other parts of your body ache. This can mean the project suffers too. If you want a better result, it is a good idea to take breaks and give yourself a chance to recover from the time you have spent on the project.

Holding Sewing Pins: Do You Put Them In Your Mouth?
This may seem convenient, but it is a very bad idea. It is far too easy to swallow pins, which is not good for your health. Not only can the pins end up in your stomach, but you can accidentally inhale a pin into your lung, which can do a lot of damage.
 
Starting a New Project Using an Untested Technique
You may find a new technique for sewing that seems like a great idea. However, before you start a project using material that you have in limited supply, try taking extra material you don't have a use for and testing yourself and the new technique on that. In this manner, you can get a handle on the new technique, then you can have better results with the project where you want to see it used.
 
Fabric and Designs: Make Sure They Mesh Well
There is a reason to use specific types of fabrics for certain garments or specific designs. It is not helpful to try to use any fabric for a project, when that project would work best with specific materials. Certain fabrics are far too challenging to use for a project. Pay attention to the fabric suggestions on the pattern and save yourself some hassle.
 
Fabric Marking: When Ballpoint Isn't Your Friend
If you have a sewing room, make sure all of your ink pens are stored elsewhere. A water soluble pen and a chalk pencil will be the best tools to have on hand. Make sure to test to see if a water soluble pen will stain the fabric you are using for a specific project. If that is the case, then use the chalk pencil instead.
 
Fabric Scissors: Keep Them In The Sewing Room
In direct contrast to your ink pens, your fabric scissors should be stored in the sewing room. Likewise, they should NOT be used for items other than fabric. This dulls the scissors and makes them less effective when you are trying to cut fabric for a project. Keeping them in the sewing room keeps them safe for projects and avoids accidental use as well.
 
Measurement: Measure Twice, Cut Once
There is a reason old sayings get to be old sayings: they have a point. Even if you think you know the measurements for a certain project, take them again before you start cutting. You may find a change in the measurements or realize you made a mistake the first time. Either way, measuring twice saves on wasted material.
 
Sewing Machines: Create and Stick to a Maintenance Schedule
Lint and dust tend to build up in the moving parts of your sewing machine. If you ignore this important fact, your work could be ruined when the machine stops running. To avoid this, make sure you do regular maintenance on your machine. It is also a good idea to take it to a professional who works at an authorized repair shop when issues get out of hand.

Now that you know some of the common bad habits crafters pick up in regard to sewing, you may be able to avoid them. That can mean positive changes for your sewing projects and a boost to your budget.

If you have any other bad sewing habits you would like to share, please help your fellow sewists out and leave a comment below!

credit: so-sew-easy.com

Sewing Tips | Detachable collar: the easy way to bling your outfit.

 

A detachable collar is perhaps the easiest way to “bling” an outfit and make it more elegant without having to go and spend a whole bunch of money on jewelry. A removable collar is also a great alternative to the current trend of chokers that are in every jewelry store these days –at least in my corner of the world.


 
Here is a super easy way to make one that will take you only a short time, few supplies and little money to make.

When making this collar, you should take into consideration the venerable Fibonacci sequence which is a pillar of design 
and even architecture. This sequence of numbers is found all around nature and using it in your designs will make them really stand out. We are more in tune with nature than you think and our brain recognizes balance and symmetry –which is illustrated in the Fibonacci sequence– and finds it beautiful. I have chosen to work with the number “5”, but “3” also works very well. Of course, as always, please do what you think works best for you.
 
Materials for the Detachable Collar:
You will be using a scrap of paper, but if you are buying online I need to give you the minimum amount stores will sell you.

• 1 1/4″ yard of 1 1/2″ Venice lace (this is the actual amount and this is the lace I used in the pictures.)
• 1/4 yard of fabric (satin, cotton batiste, linen), neutral color.
• 1/4 yard of light fusible interfacing
• thread to match
• 1 1/2″ yard of 1/4″ ribbon to match.
• 5 Swarovski pearls 5mm to 6mm (optional)
• french curve ruler (you should really get one of these if you're planning on building your pattern making skills)
• sewing needle
• pencil or heat erasable pen

Step one: Drafting the base
There is no pattern for this project, so I'm going to teach you how to draft a basic pattern yourself. The measurements given are for a person with a neck measurement that is 13 1/2″ to 15″. You'll be able to draft this pattern straight on the fusible interfacing but you can use paper to make the pattern if you like.

These measurements include a 1/4″ seam allowance on all sides.

Fold your fusible interfacing or paper in half. Working on the fold and on the horizontal line. Mark a line that is 2 3/8″ to the left.



Working on the vertical line. Mark a spot 3″ down.



Using your french curve ruler, join these two marks by making a curve. 



Mark 2 3/8″ from the curve.



Using the curve continue to mark this measurement to make a curve that is 2 3/8″ from the first curve. 



Use your french ruler to draw the curve and cut.

 

Round up the curve with your french ruler.

 

Fold back in half. At the neckline, mark a point 1/4″ from the edge. From this point to the opposite corner draw a line and cut.



 
Step two: Cut the fabric and the lining using your pattern
Cut on fold both fabric and fusible interfacing.

Sewing tip: If using satin, fuse the interfacing to the satin before cutting the fabric.
 
Step three: sewing the collar
Right sides together. Sew the bottom at 3/8″ if you are size 15 and 1/4″ if you are around 13 1/2″.

 

Sew the top at 3/8″ if you are size 15 and 1/4″ if you are around 13 1/2″. Trim the seam allowance by half.

 
Fold the ends 1/4″ in, iron and insert the ribbon.



Sew at 1/8″. At this point, you have a blank canvas. If you have a fancy embroidery machine, I suggest you add a border to your the bottom and top of the collar. I think it will look even more elegant. 


 
Step four: Cutting and sewing the laceIf you are using another kind of lace than what is recommended, make sure your lace is stiff. You can use fabric stiffener before you make the flower if you need to.

If you're using the recommended lace, you will need to cut seven segments of the lace for five smaller flowers or eight segments of the lace for three larger flowers. You can, of course, vary this if you want. You could even do some large and some small but that is completely up to you.

For lace other than the recommended, you will need 7 1/2″ of lace for five smaller flowers and or 8 1/2″ of lace for three larger flowers. The lace needs to have scallops or edging that creates segments like the lace I used for the flowers to really form properly.



Thread the needle with four strands of thread. Make a knot at the end. Using a running stitch and sew the side of the lace making a circle.



Using the same kind of stitch 1/4″ apart, sew at the bottom of the lace and pull to gather the lace.

 


 

Sew at least five times back and forth to secure the gathers.


 

Put aside and make the rest following the same steps.
 
Step five: Sewing the flowers on your detachable collar
Find the middle of the collar and sew the first flower.



 
Sew the second one next to it and the next one to the opposite side of the first one. I think you know where I am going with this so just continue on. Work your way up the collar work from the center.

 I 

have cut some segments of lace off and will be adding them in the middle of the flowers so the white collar can not be seen too much. 

Lastly, I have sewn some Swarovski pearls in the center of the flowers for a bit of pop and voila! A boring top becomes much more interesting!

As I finish this tutorial, I rummage in my box of lace and find some interesting candidates to make at least four more collars. I will be sharing these with you over the next few weeks. In the mean, see what you can find in your sewing stash to adapt this collar to your sewing supplies.

Until next time and happy sewing!


 

credit:so-sew-easy.com