Bows & Buttons Dress
So I have a small admission to make. I have had this dress floating around in my head for the longest time. So long in fact, that when it first came to me, I was planning on making it for my daughter out of her father’s old jeans. As you might be able to tell, my little girl is no longer the size of a jean leg! I am still entirely convinced that the used jeans option is a viable one, I just need a little baby girl to test it out on (cue husband having a heart-attack at the thought of a third child!).
One of the amazing things about living in Paris is the fabric district in the Place Saint Pierre. Unfortunately one of the less amazing things about living in Paris is that that is the only place to get a great range of fabrics. My local fabric store has a very limited range, but unwilling to drag myself all the way to the base of Montmatre, I ended up instead dragging myself to our neighbouring town. The fabric I chose was a softened denim and was actually not as stiff as I had thought, so I needed to use a little iron-on interfacing to strengthen the bodice.
I love how it turned out, and actually the softer denim makes it a very comfortable dress for Miss Chloé to play in, which is important considering how sticky hot this Summer is starting to feel! I do feel however, that the dress would have looked better if I had placed the bow a little higher on the bodice, but I’m sure that’s something I can fix next time.
Bows & Buttons Dress Tutorial
You will need:
A sewing machine
0.5m – 1m of fabric (I used a soft denim)
2m of broderie anglaise
Iron-on interfacing
8 buttons
Step 1
Using an existing dress as a base, I traced around to find the shape and size of the dress I wanted to make. You should make sure you straighten off the neckline. Cut out two of these dresses (wrong sides facing), then cut the bottom 3-4 inches off of these pieces. Cut out two pieces to line the inside of the dress upper. Cut out 2 long strips approximately 10 inches (26 cm) by 2 inches (this will form our bias tape for the armholes). Finally cut out your front panel. This should be the same width as the neckline, and the same length as your dress (my advice is to play around with it before cutting it to make sure the bow is going to be large enough for you).
Step 2
Place the broderie anglaise (right side facing up) onto the right side of the base segment of the skirt. Stitch this into place using a straight stitch. Match the skirt base to the top part of the dress, wrong sides together sew this in place. Open out and iron flat.
Step 3
Iron interfacing onto the two lining panels. Place the lining panel right-side down onto the right side of the dress panel (like on the left in the picture above). Stitch along the neckline. Turn lining panel over to the inside and iron the seam flat.
Step 4
On the long strips, fold long edges into the centre and iron flat. This creates a bias tape that we will use for the armholes.
Step 5
Fold bias tape over the armhole edges and pin into place, from the top of bottom of the arm hole on the back panel of the dress to the bottom of the armhole on the front dress panel. Make sure you have measured the shoulder height from the neckline. Stitch along the inside edge of the bias tape, making sure you catch all the inside panel pieces as you go. Repeat on the other side. You should now have a piece that looks like the one above.
Step 6
Wrong sides facing inwards, sew along the side edges of the dress panels, making sure the ends of the bias tape are sewn inwards also. These can now be trimmed. Turn dress right-side out.
Step 7
Hem the top and bottom edges of the centre panel. Next, sew the broderie anglaise (right-side facing down) along the long edges of the centre panel. Turn right-side out and iron flat.
Step 8
Position centre panel by lining up the bottom edge with the broderie strip at the base of the dress. Fold top edge over and back onto itself to create a small rectangular section at the top of the dress. Pinch this in the centre to gather it and hand stitch to fasten. This creates our bow.
Step 9
Fix centre panel into place sewing buttons along each edge. You could also top sew this panel into place, but I personally didn’t want the extra line of stitching.
Finally hem the bottom of the skirt to your desired length.
Left Foot, Right Foot, Presser Foot
I think sometimes when we get a new machine we are so excited that we want to just dive right in and start stitching. We forget that with this machine comes so many different accessories- aka “parts” or presser feet. Yes, I am talking about those pages in the manual that show you all the fun presser feet and tools that come with your machine. Let’s be honest, have you ever really looked at these pages?
When I counted the presser feet on my manual pages I was shocked. My machine came with 18 different feet. To be fair, I do not use all of them. In fact, I hardly use most of them. But there are a few that stand out in the crowd. And they are not the fancy ones either. For me, these are the work horses of the group.
I know what your thinking, that I am going to praise the zipper foot or tell you how much I love the buttonhole foot. While these feet are great, I do not use them everyday. In fact, the zig zag foot (also know as “J” in your manual) is what comes on your standard machine set up and I do not use this for sewing. I use (que the music please) the monogram foot! This under utilized presser foot really does not get much lip service.
Details on the Monogram Foot:
The monogram foot is sometimes referred to as “N”. It was created to stitch wider, more decorative stitches.
It has a line/mark on the side for starting your decorative stitch. This line is for stitch pattern placement. You can also use it for aligning your stitches and decorative pattern when turning a corner.
There is a wide cut out on the back. This cut out allows for the foot to travel over your stitches with ease. *Most decorative stitches have a build up of stitches and can produce some bulk.
But my favorite part about this presser foot is that it has a wider base. This foot is a full 1/8″ wider than your standard zig zag foot.
Now, I know that eight of an inch might not seem like much but for me, it means the world. It allows me to maintain an even amount of pressure when stitching together small pieces. Since most of my work contains smaller pieces, it works. That means for me when comparing presser feet, the monogram foot wins every time to the zig zag foot.
credit: thesewingloftblog.com
Bias width…. What is the right size and how do I figure it out….. that is the question!
One of the most impressive things about this sewing blog is YOU! That’s right, you. You keep me engaged, focused and inspired to share more. So, last week when I shared an easy trick oncustom piping, Christine asked how to determine the correct bias width based on the size of cording. I thought this was a great question and wanted to share the basic formula.
Actually, this is all about pie…. Nope, not the all American Apple Pie (although that is my personal fav!) It’s all about the math here. We need 3.14 or P.IE
Bias Width: Determine the right size
First we need to figure out the circumference. That is the diameter x 3.14 Or as my daughter told me C=Πd. If your like me and want to avoid math, toss the tape measure around your cording and add a comfortable seam allowance. I like to add 1″ to 1.5″ extra. This will give me enough seam allowance for sewing bias around my cording and is the perfect bite for mypresser foot.
**One quick note- I like to error on the side of extra, especially with thick cording.
I think it is really important that we all understand this blog is all about the art of learning, exploring and sharing our experiences. I love that you ask questions and want you to know that I am here to answer them. Understand that it may take me some time but I am listening and wanting to share more with this ever growing sewing circle!
credit: thesewingloftblog.com
Hi 30 Days readers! I’m Allie from Miss Lovie and I’m here to share an easy sewing tutorial with you today, my fabric heart coasters! These would make a perfect gift for your mom, sister, or a friend on Valentine’s Day. They’d also be a great hostess gift any time of the year!
For these coasters, I used an inverse applique method I will show you. You could use this idea for hearts- or any shape that you like! This is a GREAT scrap-busting project. I’m pretty sure I used only scraps for the most part.
I love that these can be packaged up really cute and are the perfect little gift.
Ok let’s get started!
First, you’ll want to gather your materials:
For each coaster, you’ll need 3 squares of whatever main fabric you choose (I chose a linen-looking muslin), 1 square of fabric for the heart, 1 square of batting-not shown here- (any thinner kind will do- I used a low loft cotton batting) all cut into 4.5 inch squares. You’ll also need a heart template, coordinating thread, a pen to trace the fabric (you can use a disappearing ink pen, but you don’t really have to), and a needle for hand sewing. Be sure to wash and press your fabric before cutting!
First trace a heart in the middle of one of the muslin fabric squares. You don’t have to use disappearing ink because you’re going to turn this inside out and you won’t even see it Here’s a template if you need it: heart template for coasters.
Pin one of the other muslin fabric squares to it.
Now you’re going to sew right on top of the line you just drew. Set your stitch length to a pretty short setting (1 or 2). This will help you create a nice curve. I always start sewing the heart as shown in the above picture so I can begin sewing in a straight line which makes it easier to back stitch. When you get to the point of the heart, simply leave your needle down, lift the presser foot and turn it until it’s pointed in the right direction and continue sewing. On the curves, sew a few stitches, leave the needle down, lift your presser foot, and turn it until it’s pointing in the right direction, and repeat. If you look at the right photo above, you’ll see where I’ve pivoted my fabric to go in the right direction. The red line of the presser foot should always be right on the line of the heart. Take your time on this part. Sew all the way around, remembering to back stitch everything closed.
Next, you’ll cut out the middle of the heart leaving a small seam allowance next to the heart outline. Cut through both layers of fabric. Then clip and notch the curves. You can use pinking sheers for this if you like, but I just cut out tiny triangles with my regular fabric scissors because they’re more precise than the pinking shears I have.
This is the cool part. Turn one of the layers of fabric inside out as shown above so that the seam is now hidden. Use a turning tool or a blunt pencil to poke out the top point of the heart. Once it’s turned inside out, press the seams open and flat. (Sorry- my picture for that step disappeared.)
Your heart should look like the one in the top left photo below.
Next, you’ll pin your other fabric behind the heart and top stitch around the heart outline. Now you have the top of your coaster!
Now, layer the last muslin square on top of the finished top (heart should be facing the muslin square-not showing from the back) and then place the batting square on top and pin all the layers together.
Sew around the edge with a 1/2 inch seam allowance being sure to back stitch, leaving a 2 inch opening at the bottom for turning it inside out. Use pinking sheers to trim the edges and cut the corners off to ensure there isn’t too much bulk and the corners are nice and crisp. Turn the coaster inside out and use a turning tool or blunt pencil point to poke out the corners.
Turn the ends under where the opening is and press well. While you’re at it, press the entire coaster, smoothing out any wrinkles that accumulated while turning it inside out. Use your needle and a whip stitch to close that opening. Then top stitch the coaster on your machine using a 2/8 inch seam allowance. Finished!
Once you get all the fabrics cut and get rolling, you can whip up a set of these in no time.
Stack them and tie them up with a sweet ribbon and they are ready to be given away for a perfect gift. OR you can just keep them for yourself-which is probably what I will do because they’re so cute.
credit: thirtyhandmadedays.com
Custom piping is easy to create and can enhance even the simplest of projects. That’s right, in just a few simple steps, this custom trim can completely transform your project. Let me show you how in just four simple steps.
Create Custom Piping
This project is for all levels.
Skill Level- 1 Button
Supplies:
continuous bias strip of fabric
cotton piping/cording
Tools:
sewing machine
zipper foot
basic sewing supplies
Basic Instructions:
Attach your zipper foot to your machine and check the needle position.
Lay right side of your bias strip on a flat surface and center your cording on top.
Fold the bias fabric in half, matching raw edge to raw edge.
Straight stitch close to the cording with your zipper foot. *Tip: Stitch about 1/8″ from the cording for basting. Then when cording is sandwiched between the layers of fabric in your project, you will use your zipper foot again and stitch as close as possible. This will prevent your basting stitch from being visible.
credit: thesewingloftblog.com
I love to sew and I’ve been spending a bit of time in front of the sewing machine lately. Sadly and to be honest, “a lot of time” to me is really about 20 mins, so quick projects are what I need to feed this hobby! I wanted to share these dish towel aprons that will seriously only take 10 minutes to whip together! I timed myself making one and it was 7 mins, so I have faith you can do it in under 10 too!
Supplies to make a Dish Towel Apron
1 dish towel (Mine are just regular size 27″ x 21″)
85″ of Ribbon, (at least 1.5″ wide, the wider the better) I suggest 85″, but you can measure to suit your body size. May Arts has a great selection of grosgrain options.
Sewing Machine
Stick Pins
If you can sew a straight line with your sewing machine you are on your way to some very cute and easy aprons! You will need to first make the pleats. Armed with your stick pins, let me show you how…
- Fold the dish towel in half (widthwise).
- Pinch the fabric 1″ back from the centre fold you just created.
- Push your finger into the fold, making a ‘T’ shape.
- Pinch one side of the ‘T’ and bring the edge of dish towel back to meet it. Pin in place, repeat with the other side of the ‘T’.
- Fold the outside edge of the towel into the centre to meet the pleat you’ve just created. Repeat step 2-4.
- Repeat with opposite side of the towel. You should now have 3 pleats evenly spaced along the long edge of the dish towel to hold the pleats in place.
- Baste a straight line along the top edge of the tea towel.
- Fold the length of ribbon in half and line the centre up with the middle pleat. Pin in place covering up the pleats, to create a waistband.
- Using a straight stitch, sew around the parameter of the ribbon that is attached to the dish towel, creating a long rectangle of stitches.
That’s it, how easy, right?!
This one I added a fun little Pom Pom trim detail, cute, eh?!
The third apron I added a bit more detail. A ruffled colourful ribbon, and a fabric flower. Still a simple dish towel apron, but a bit more flashy and fun!
Can you believe how easy these dish towel aprons are? With a $7 pack of dish towels and only 30 mins (10 mins x 3 aprons) of time you’ll have 3 gifts perfect for a bridal shower, new neighbour, or the foodie on your list! I wear an apron every day so I think I’ll add these to my own stash.
Are you an apron wearer? Full body or half, which do you prefer?
credit: fynesdesigns.com
