Broken Needle: best practices to prevent it happening to you

 

A broken needle flying into the eye is a fear that seamstresses share all over the world. Something like walking into a spider web and not knowing whether the spider is stuck on your hair or lurking on the floor ready to strike –but potentially much, much worse. Those that have experienced the consequences of a broken needle often wear eye protection in the form of safety goggles or spectacles. To avoid this unfortunate incident, here are the main reasons why this happens and some best practice tips to prevent it happening to you.
 

Avoid pulling the fabric

This is a mistake made mostly by seasoned home sewers, because they are experienced and get distracted by music, internet or tv and cannot hear when the machines complains. The sound of the machine always tells you when it is working too hard or something is misaligned. Pulling the fabric will result in skipping stitches, a bent or a broken needle.



Below shows the correct positioning of your hands to avoid a broken needle. The feeder underneath the fabric is helping the fabric pass at the correct speed for the machine. Use your hands only to keep the fabric feeding straight and flat under the needle NOT to pull it through at a pace faster than the machine can handle.


 
Clean the sewing machine

Experts recommend that you clean your machine once a month. In fact it depends on how often you use it and the type of fabric you are using. If you use the sewing machine a lot, you may have to clean it more often.
 

Check the needle regularly

If you are familiar with the movie “The Usual Suspects“, then you may appreciate the comparison, at the end of the movie the small crooked man, the master mind of all the mess, turns into the smart, self confident shiny suit. In this scenario, the needle is the unusual suspect. Before we blame that blunt and bent little thing at the end of the shaft, we blame the tension, the timing, the fabric and even the thread –when most of the time the problem can be rectified by changing to a good quality needle.

Change your needle often especially after sewing thick or sequined fabrics. Use the appropriate needle and thread for the fabric you are working on.

Here is what often happens just before a broken needle:

• You have sewn over a pin or zipper
• The thread looks frayed
• You have skipped stitches 
• Your stitches give your project a puckered appearance.
  

A clean and well-oiled sewing machine and a good quality needle will decrease the chances of injuring your eye and prolong the life of your sewing machine. It will also improve the creative satisfaction of your sewing while most importantly reducing the chances of injuring your eye.

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Sewing Tips | Binding: Bias vs. Straight Grain

We all know that binding has a variety of uses in the sewing room – from finishing the edges of quilted items to hemming garments. In general, the term “binding” just applies to a folded piece of fabric that goes over or around the edge of something, but there are two main types of binding – bias and straight grain – and there’s a good bit of debate about which type is better for certain projects.


 
Bias Binding vs. Straight Grain

Time to weigh in! Here’s the break-down:

Bias Binding
1. Works for curved edges and straight lines equally well.
2. Creates a sturdier edge because it puts the fold on the cross-section of the woven threads instead of lining up the fold with the grain of the fabric.
3. Somewhat more complicated to make.
4. Requires a bit of math to calculate yardage.

Straight Grain Binding
1. Only works for straight line edges; will not hug curves.
2. Creates a weaker edge because the fold lines up with a single thread (or just a few) on the grain of the fabric.
3. Easier to make than bias binding – simply cut selvage to selvage.
4. Easy to calculate yardage requirements.

Bias binding may be more difficult to make, but the result is a binding that serves any purpose and is nice and strong. We’ve got some tips here on the blog to help you make continuous binding, turn it into piping, and calculate the yardage you need for it, so you’re covered either way.



Straight-grain binding is easier to make, and calculating yardage for it is also a snap. However, it’s probably best suited to things like wall quilts that won’t get a lot of wear and tear over the years.

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Sewing Tips | How to Make Straight Grain Binding

Now that we’ve discussed the debate between bias binding and straight grain binding, it’s time to round-up our Binding Basics series with a tutorial on making your own straight-grain binding. As a bonus, this “cheater binding” method will have seams that are angled to resemble bias binding.



This project is for all levels.

Skill Level- 1 Button

Ready to get started?



Step 1: Calculate yardage needed

Take the dimensions of your quilt – length and width – and multiply those by the width of your desired binding (remember that you’re going to fold the binding in half so the finished width of the binding will be half the width you calculate here). Use the following set of simple equations:



Length*2 + Width*2 = Quilt Perimeter

Quilt Perimeter/Width of fabric = number of strips to cut

Number of strips*Full width of binding = inches of fabric needed

Inches of fabric/36 = yardage needed

So for a sample baby quilt that is 36” wide by 42” long, let’s see how this plays out:

36*2 + 42*2 = 72 + 84 = 156 inches (quilt perimeter)

156/40 (standard post-washing width of fabric) = 3.9 (round-up to 4)

4*4 (for 2-inch binding we will cut 4-inch strips) = 16

16/36 = .44 yards (round-up to ½ yard just to be on the safe side)

Step 2: Cut your strips.

Place your fabric onto your cutting mat. Using your rotary cutter and ruler, cut strips that are as wide as you need them to be, according to the math we worked out in step 1. Cut the number of strips you calculated as well (so for our sample quilt we would cut 4 strips that are each 4 inches wide). Make your strips selvage to selvage as you cut.

Step 3: Sew your strips together.

Position the end of one strip on top of the end of another, putting them at a 90-degree angle from one another. Sew a diagonal line at a 45-degree angle, and trim the corner, like so:



Open your seams and press, then repeat this process until you have sewn all 4 strips into one continuous line.

Press the binding in half, with wrong sides together, and proceed to use it in your project.

Have you ever made straight grain binding before? What do you use it for in your sewing room? Share with us in the comments below!

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Sewing Tips | Binding your quilt with school supplies

Need an extra hand when binding your quilt? Consider raiding your junk drawer!



That’s right, most junk drawers contain a TON of loose office and school supplies that can be used in our workrooms. These binder clips are perfect for holding your binding in place or even a quilt sandwich.


 
Binding Your Quilt



Just fold over your binding and clip in place. Remove the clips as you sew around your quilt and reposition to another area on your quilt binding. Binder clips are available pretty much everywhere and very inexpensive.

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Sewing Tips | Serged Hem

If you own a serger or have access to one, it can be extremely useful to you in the hemming process. A serger creates a cleanly hemmed edge in one single step, so it’s faster than most traditional hems. There’s a bit of a learning curve with any serger, but once you get used to your machine you may be finding excuses to hem your sewing!


 
Serged Hem Sewing

Uses for the serged hem:
A serged hem will sew two pieces of fabric together with a neat edge that won’t fray (it even trims as it sews), so it’s perfect for baby blankets, table linens, or handkerchiefs.
Use the serger as the first step in hemming any fabric – serge the raw edge of the fabric and then press it and hem it as normal; the serged edge means you only have to make one fold in the hem before sewing because the serger stitches will keep the fabric from fraying.
Use the rolled hem setting on your serger to create a neatly rolled hem on lightweight fabrics or table linens.
Apply a lace trim to the edge of your fabric (after making a basic rolled hem with your serger), then do a second set of rolled hem stitching to catch the lace with the fabric edge. Fold the fabric edge under for a lace trim and stitch it in place on your regular machine.
Use your serger’s differential feed settings to create a lettuce-style edging on stretch fabrics. This gives the edge of the hem a ruffled or wavy look.

Tips for serged hems:
The serger will trim your fabric as you sew, so don’t worry if the raw edge is a little bit uneven or wavy.
Use a coordinating thread to hide the serged hem or choose a contrasting thread to make the seam the star of the show. A texturized thread, such as the Wooly Nylon, provides a really lovely pop of color to items like cloth napkins or dish towels. You can even put a different color thread on each spool of the serger to create a variegated effect.
Refer to your Stitch Card for different seam options.

The MOST IMPORTANT TIP I can offer is: Never serge over pins! Not only will it break your needle but doing so can damage your machine.

How to make a serged hem:
Set your serger for an overlock stitch (basic hemming) or a rolled stitch (lighter fabrics or more polished hemming).
Trim the fabric so that it is mostly neat and at the length you want – if you don’t plan to fold it under, make sure your item measures within ¼ inch of your desired finished measurement.
Sew a few stitches on your serger without putting fabric into the machine yet – this will create a chain of stitches to start you off.
Slide the fabric into your serger so that the edge is neatly trimmed by the serger knife.
Serge down one whole side and then pull the fabric out but continue to stitch for an inch or two so you have another chain of stitches on the end.
If you’re sewing something with a corner, start a new seam for each edge.
Be sure to tuck those tails in! Use a darning needle to weave the thread chains back under the hem stitches and apply a small amount of seam sealant to the corners to keep the thread from unraveling.
 


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Sewing Tips | Stitch Card Reference Guide

These days our sewing machines can do so much more than the basic straight stitch. To help keep stitches straight, I suggest create an easy stitch card reference guide. This guide can provide an instant visual reference for your next project. I especially love these cards for my serger machine. They are simple to make and can be created with leftover fabric scraps.


Create a Stitch Card Reference Book



This project is for stitchers of all levels.

Skill Level- 1 Button



Tools:
sewing machine & owners manual
fabric scraps
marker

Basic Instructions:
Cut scrap fabric into squares. I cut mine 4″ by 4″ but any size will work.
Pull out and refer to the owners manual to your machine. This will help you set your stitches properly.
Select a stitch and sew around all four sides of the fabric square. Repeat this process for each stitch your machine offers. Tip: If using a serger, don’t forget to tuck your tail in.
Label each fabric square with the correct stitch name and any additional notes you would like to remember.
Layer your stitch cards together and run a stitch in the upper corner to create a stitch card book.

Think of this new reference tool as your “little black book” of stitches. I like to keep my book tucked away with my machine. This way, when it’s late and I’m trying to remember just how much bigger the 3 thread overlock wide stitch is compared to the 3 thread narrow stitch, I can just pull out my book and look at them side by side. It really keeps things simple!

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Sewing Tips | Understanding Pattern Markings

If you’ve ever picked up a sewing pattern, you may have been confused by the apparent hieroglyphics marking on the pattern pieces. Never fear – you don’t have to learn an ancient, symbolic language in order to sew with commercial patterns! Most patterns have standardized markings, which makes it easier and faster to sew with them over time once you have practiced with a few of them. Let’s take a look at the magic decoding key.



Let’s break the glossary down into bite size chunks.
Commercial Pattern Markings





Cutting Lines – The cutting lines on a pattern are the lines you use when cutting out the pattern pieces (first cutting them out of the paper pattern and then cutting them out of fabric.


If a pattern comes in one size only, usually the cutting line is a solid line and the seam lines (where you would sew on the fabric) are dotted or dashed.


If a pattern comes in multiple sizes, the cutting line uses a different design or style for each size (so a size 8 might be solid while a size 10 is dashes and a size 12 is dots, for instance). When cutting out patterns like these, be sure to cut along the correct line! In these cases there generally isn’t a seam line; rather, the pattern instructions simply tell you how large to make the seams.



Grainline Mark – This mark is a horizontal line with arrows pointing out on either end; line this up with the grain of your fabric as you position your pattern pieces. (The grain of your fabric is parallel to the selvege edges).



On the Fold – Represented by a line with arrows pointing in a particular direction, the “on the fold” marking shows you where to position the edge of your pattern piece on a fold of your fabric. This allows you to cut a piece of fabric that is twice as large as the pattern piece.



Bust and Hip Indicators – The bust and hip indicators are small circles with crossed lines in the center. You’ll find these pattern markings positioned at the bust and hip points on the pattern pieces, and they will be accompanied by a measurement of the full circumference of the pattern at these points. They’re an easy way to make sure that the finished pattern measurements will work well for your own bust and hip measurements.



Notches (Diamonds and Triangles) – There are often markings shaped like diamonds or triangles along the edges of a pattern to indicate where you need to match up two pattern pieces and fit them together.



Squares, circles, and other shapes – These small shapes are usually positioned at the neckline or armholes of a pattern (though they can technically show up anywhere). These are used to indicate the point at which you should match up two pieces of the pattern, such as fitting a sleeve into an armhole.



Lengthen/Shorten Line – Often a pattern has two horizontal, parallel lines together to indicate the point where you might wish to lengthen or shorten the pattern in order to suit your own measurements. This is especially true when a pattern has a petite size option.



Buttonholes and Buttons – The position of a buttonhole on a pattern is usually represented by a line shaped like a capital “I,” whether it’s vertical or horizontal. Along this line somewhere will be an X to indicate the placement of the actual button.



Darts – Dart lines on a pattern are usually shown as a diamond shape or as two lines spreading out from one concentric point. The dart lines often have dots on them to help you line up the stitching.



Tucks and Gathers – these markings resemble a square that is missing one line; the dots at the bottom indicate where to pull in the fabric to make it meet in the middle, and the vertical lines and dots at the top indicate where to sew your stitches.

BONUS MARKINGS-



Pattern Key- These squares refer to your printed pattern. They are designed to keep your pattern right side up or down when cutting. Be sure to match this to your pattern cutting instructions.



Fabric Key- These squares refer to your fabric, interlining and lining. They are designed to keep your fabric placement in check.

Have you ever encountered a strange symbol on a sewing pattern that we haven’t covered here? Snap a photo and share it with us, and we’ll help you figure it out!

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Sewing Tips | Basic Sewing Essentials

Clearly, we are going to focus on the latter. Let’s talk about some of the basics and create our foundation for a successful year of sewing.



To jump start us off I have put together a list of essential tools for your sewing kit. These are the tools that I use almost everyday.
Basic Sewing Essentials

Cutting Mat: This mat is a keeper in my world. Not only does it protect my work surface from getting all scratched up but when combined with my rotary cutter it is a pure time saver!
Cutting Tools: These come in all shapes and sizes. Some of my favorites include the rotary cutter, small embroidery scissors, fabric shears and appliqué scissors.
Iron/Ironing Board: I consider this to be one of my most important and under appreciated tools in my work space.
Lint Roller: This helps to keep both me and my project clean!
Marking Pen/Chalk: Marking pens and chalk are perfect for drawing directly onto your fabric. Different marking tools are used for each fabric type and application.
Pins/Pincushion/Sewing Weights: Pins are essential for keeping fabric pieces in their place. However, when cutting out larger pieces of fabric, I like to use sewing weights.
Quilter’s Ruler: A clear ruler used to cut strips, shapes and bias pieces. This tool also allows you to cut a straight line on multiple layers when combined with your cutting mat and rotary cutter.
Seam Ripper: This is probably the most dreaded tool in your sewing kit but it is important. Not only is it handy for removing seams but they make quick work of opening up buttonholes.
Tape Measure: Who says these tools need to be ordinary, not me! My retractable tape measure always makes me smile and these fashion ones suit my fancy!
Washi Tape: What can I say? I love me some washi tape! I use it on everything from marking my mannequin to keeping small fabric bits in place. You can see more ways I use 

And a few tools I think deserve an honorable mention:

• hand sewing needles
• hem gauge
• mannequin/dress form
• spray starch

Now, these are just a few of the many fun things out on the market today but in all fairness, I think they are a must in any workroom. That is of course in addition to my sewing machine, thread and my most important tool of all- my glasses!

Over the next few weeks we will explore some of these tools in further detail to help you create a basket filled with the basic sewing essentials!

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Sewing Tips | Rolled Hem Basics & How To

A rolled hem uses a special foot on your sewing machine – called the rolled hem foot, appropriately enough – to roll the edge of the fabric onto itself and stitch it in place. You can also create this type of hem by hand if you don’t have a rolled hem foot for your machine or if the type of fabric you’re sewing is very delicate. The rolled hem is ideal for lightweight fabrics, knits, and any project where you might otherwise use a serger but you don’t have one.
 



(Note: depending on the brand of your machine the presser foot may also be known as the narrow hemmer foot.)

Uses for the rolled hem:

• Use a rolled hem to sew the edges of a piece of silk chiffon or other very delicate fabric and turn it into a scarf.
• Use a rolled hem on sheer fabrics – examples might include sewing a slip or a pair of sheer curtains.
• Rolled hems work really well for tablecloths, because traditionally tablecloths don’t have a heavy hem on them.
• Rolled hems are excellent for the edges of a t-shirt, especially one made with delicate knit fabrics.

Tips for rolled hems:

• Using a rolled hem foot can take some practice, so try to test it out on a scrap piece of fabric that has the same composition as the fabric you’d like to finish with a rolled hem.
• Be sure to leave a long thread tail for easy seam start. If your machine has an automatic thread cutter be sure to disengage.
• If you are using very delicate fabric, be sure to use a sewing needle and proper thread that will work well with the fabric without tearing it or jamming it inside the machine.
• If you sew a rolled hem by hand, keep your stitches small and near the edge of the curve in the fabric.
  

 
How to make a Rolled Hem

This technique is for all levels.

Skill Level- 1 Button

Tools:
sewing machine
rolled hem foot

Basic Instructions:
Swap out your standard presser foot for your rolled hem foot. This foot has a strange-looking twisted piece in the center. This scroll will guide the edge of the fabric into place and create your hem beautifully while enclosing the raw edge.
Trim hem seam allowance to 1/2″. Fold and press the fabric over 1/8″ to the wrong side of fabric. Press over 1/8″ again.

 

Before I begin to stitch, I like to tack a few stitches at the edge and leave long thread tails. This will make starting easy and smooth. Place fabric under presser foot and feed fabric into twisted scroll. Lower foot.



Pull the thread tails from behind with your left hand and slowly begin to sew. Continue stitching to edge, gently guiding the fabric with your right hand; leaving a long thread tail.



If you’re sewing by hand, take one edge of the fabric and gently roll it in on itself, toward the right side or the top. Make your roll tight and small, and pinch it between the fingers of your non-dominant hand. Make a series of small stitches between the body of the fabric and the rolled fabric to hold it in place. Hide your knots inside the roll.

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Sewing Tips | Chain Piecing – Streamline your project

Chain piecing and assembly piecing are interchangeable terms in the world of sewing. They refer to assembly line sewing and just like the 1/4″ seam are considered a staple in the world of quilting.



I like to think of chain piecing as the assembly line sewing. You are essentially sewing like pieces together in a repetitive fashion. This method is super efficient and the perfect way to streamline your project.



When all pieces are stitched together, cut the joining threads and move on to the next step in your project.

Not only will this technique speed up your sewing time but it will save you thread and headache. That’s right, I said headache. There will be no more start and stopping, no more trimming each block and NO more headache of your small parts getting chewed up in your machine.

Chain Piecing Quick Tips

Stack up your pieces within easy reach of your machine.
Keep Sewing! That’s right, feed pieces through your machine one after the other, leaving just a small space in-between.
Don’t just think squares here. You can make quick work of triangles too. Draw a line down the center of your block and stitch seam allowance on each side.



I promise, chain piecing sewing is your friend with any type of repetitive project.

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Sewing Tips | Quilting Foot or Patchwork Foot

Sometimes we get so settled into the routine of sewing that we forget to look past the basic sewing machine foot. Well today, I want to share a new discovery…. the quilting foot or patchwork foot. It has this amazing 1/4″ guide on it to make every stitch line up perfectly.

.

This little nugget of goodness seems to be a tightly guarded secret in the quilting community. So, the question to all my quilting friends is .. Why Oh Why have you not shared this golden nugget of knowledge? This small piece of steel is fantastic. Not only will it keep your lines straight but it will keep your quilting stress free! That is a huge plus for this novice quilter.

.
                                                           Quilting Foot Facts

Let me breakdown:

• This foot has a built-in guide bar to help create perfect 1/4″ seams and super straight topstitching.
• It can only be used in a single needle application with the center straight stitch.
• The markings on this foot are measurement guides designed to help keep your stitches exact.

Tips for using the Quilting Foot:

• Align the raw edge off two fabric layers against the guide at right side of foot. Lower foot and stitch away.
• The narrow toe on the left side can be used as a guide for small piece work or mini quilts.
• Maintaining a perfect 1/4″ seam while turning a corner is easy. Stitch until the edge of fabric aligns with the mark on the narrowest part of foot; leave needle and down position, lift up pressure foot and pivot. Return presser foot to down position and continue stitching with fabric against the guide. This technique works for both quilting and top stitching.

This sewing machine foot can change the way you think about topstitching and quilting. You can pick up a quilting foot for your machine at your local shop and on-line for about $15. I think this little piece of steal is totally worth it!



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Sewing Tips | Double Fold Hem Basics

The double fold hem is the most basic hem out there, which also makes it one of the most useful hems you can learn. As the name indicates, a double-fold hem is made when you fold the fabric over on itself to the wrong side two times, to hide the raw edges and create a neat, finished hemline.



Uses for the double fold hem:

Hemming garments – use a double fold hem on the bottom edge of a skirt or a pair of pants, a blouse or top, or a jacket.

Hemming flat items- the double-fold edge works well for hemming under the edges of tablecloths, baby blankets, napkins, curtains, and other sewing projects which are basically just large squares or rectangles of fabric.

Hemming commercial items – a double-fold hem will help you shorten a commercial item that you purchased that doesn’t fit right or isn’t the right length or height.
 
Tips for the double fold hem:

For lighter-weight fabrics, a narrow double-fold hem works best. This will allow the fabric to drape properly.

A wider double fold hem is better for heavier fabric weights. The wider hem also helps to hold down the hem for items like curtains or pant legs where you want them to hang a certain way.

Use a 5-in-1 sliding gauge or a folding template to keep your hemline uniform throughout the project.
How to Make a Double Fold Hem

This technique is for all levels.

Skill Level- 1 Button

Measure the total length you want to reduce in your project by the end of the finished hem. For example, in a pair of pants, let’s say you want the hem to take 2 inches off the finished pant legs.
Fold your fabric toward the wrong side by approximately ½ inch. Use a ruler or a 5-in-1 gauge to make sure you’re actually folding the same amount of fabric the whole way through. (If you’re making a very narrow hem, you may have to reduce this to ¼ inch.) Use your iron to press that hem in place, gently lifting and pressing along the hemline to create crease.


 
Fold your fabric toward the wrong side again, this time making sure that the total amount of fabric folded up matches the hem measurement you took in step 1. (So for the pants example, you already folded ½ inch so now you need to fold 1 ½ inches more.)
Press this new hem in place, and pin it in several places to hold it.


 
Test the item – if it’s a garment, put it on; if it’s a home decor item, hang it up or put it in position and make sure that your hem has created the proper dimensions. If it looks wrong, press the fabric open and start again. If it looks right, continue on to the next step.


 
Sew the hem. A straight stitch will hold a double fold hem in place for home decor items and garments that use traditional woven fabrics. A zigzag or stretch stitch works better to hold a folded hem on stretch fabrics, and sometimes you will need to hand stitch or use a blind hem stitch for garments. Sew your line of stitching just near the inner folded edge of the fabric to hold the hem properly in place.

Need some inspiration for your double fold hem? Check out this super simple skirt.


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