Sewing Tips | Tension Settings

We always recommend you check your manual first for proper tension settings. But if you don't have the manual, or you want a different view of it, then this a good starting point.

The correct setting of the tensions is so the top and bottom threads lock in the center of the fabric (Fig1)

Bobbin Thread The bobbin thread is adjusted by the adjustable leaf spring tension (Fig 2) on the bobbin case. Turn the tiny screw on the leaf spring (Fig 3) no more then a 1/2 of a turn at a time to get the desired setting. This adjustment doesn't need to be done often, but something as simple as switching to lighter, heavier or a different thread can cause the adjustment to be off. You can quickly check the bobbin thread tension by holding the bobbin thread in your fingers (Fig 4) and pull it up in a swift motion. The bobbin case should slightly move downwards. If it doesn't move at all then most likely the tension is to strong. If the bobbin case moves downward by just holding the thread, then the tension is to weak. 

Top Thread To check the top thread tension, make sure the presser foot is down and pull a few inches of thread through by hand. You should be able to feel the tension on the thread as you pull it through. The thread should pull through nice and smooth with no snags or tight spots. Now sew a few stitches on a test fabric and compare it to the diagrams below. Adjust the tension as needed. Never sew with more tension then needed to make a good stitch!

Sewing Tips | 5 Tips for Achieving an Accurate, Consistent Seam Allowance

 Stephanie Palmer, the Late Night Quilter, is a professional longarm quilter and pattern designer. Stephanie is the creator of The Quilter’s Planner 2016, a new day-planner filled with project planning tools, to do lists, goal setting, graph paper, free motion quilting space and patterns from top designers. Now you can finally keep track of your whole life in one space! The Quilter’s Planner is now available for pre-order. To celebrate, Stephanie is hosting a fat quarter bundle giveaway on her website this week. Hop over to Late Night Quilter and enter to win!

Stephanie is here with 5 Tips for Achieving an Accurate, Consistent Seam Allowance. She shows us her favorite tools, discusses important considerations for your sewing machine and Stephanie even has a video showing her favorite seam gauge/seam guide combination in action!

As a sewist, obtaining an accurate seam allowance is one of the most important things you can achieve. The exact size of your seam allowance does not necessarily make a difference if you are sewing simple patchwork, sewing consistent seams across an entire quilt top. However, an accurate ¼” seam is essential for intricate piecing, points and group projects like bees and charity quilts.

What about a Scant Quarter Inch Seam Allowance? These days many quilters talk about sewing with a scant ¼”. This means sewing a seam that is approximately 1-2 thread widths less than an actual ¼”. When you sew, a tiny bit of fabric is folded over the thread during pressing, which makes your finished seam slightly larger than you may have anticipated.

A scant ¼” seam is most important when you need to be mindful of maintaining points in your finished quilt. If you prefer not to sew with a scant ¼” seam allowance, read below for information on modifications in pressing and thread choice that you can make that will help you achieve the same effect.

5 Tips for Achieving an Accurate, Consistent Seam Allowance

Tip #1 – Choose a Seam Guide:
My first quilting instructor encouraged me to eyeball the ¼” seam because every good quilter knows exactly what ¼” looks like. In other words, seam guides are for cheaters. I wish I realized then how wrong this was! There are many wonderful choices for a seam guide. And there is NO SHAME in using one. Each choice comes with its own pros and cons, which you can read about below.

Here are some of the most common seam guides:

Magnetic Guide: 
This affordable tool magnetically secures to the metal throat plate of a sewing machine. It is secure and can be adjusted to accommodate any seam allowance. However, it is advisable to keep strong magnets away from computerized sewing machines; they can interrupt communication between circuits and cause computerized machines to become inoperable.

Screw-in Guide (comes with certain sewing machines):
Your machine must have pre-drilled holes in the throat plate to use a screw-in guide like the one shown. It is an excellent choice for several reasons: it is more secure than any sticky guide; it can be adjusted to accommodate many seam allowances; it protrudes in front of the foot further than the guide bar of a ¼” foot; and finally, it cannot be bent out of shape like the guide bar on a ¼” foot can. (Scroll to the bottom to see a video featuring a screw-in guide).

A Quarter Inch Foot: 
Many sewing machines come with a ¼” foot, and if you have a machine that does not, check with your manufacturer. There is some variability in the accuracy of a ¼” foot. The guide bar tends to be rather flexible, which can lead to small, but significant inconsistencies in seams. If you use a ¼” foot, I recommend testing the accuracy of your seam allowance before each project, and several times as you work to re-assess the reliability of the tool.

Moleskin Foam:
This foam is made to protect and pad human feet, and can be bought in any grocery store or pharmacy. It comes in a small square, with 2-3 sheets per package, it can be cut into strips with a rotary cutter. Stick three layers to the base of the machine to create a quick and effective seam guide. This creates a more significant ridge than the masking tape. This guide is temporary, and will eventually lose its stickiness. It may leave some sticky residue on your machine that can be washed away.

Layers of Washi or Masking Tape:
Colorful washi tape, masking tape, or painter’s tape can be layered to create an effective, easily changeable seam guide. I recommend 20 layers to create an effective ridge that will guide the fabric. However, some people may prefer not to bother creating a ridge for the fabric, instead relying on the visual cue the tape provides. This temporary seam guide can also be easily adapted to assist you in sewing Half Square Triangle units without marking. Although it is easy, the tape does shift and lose its stickiness over time.

Sticky Notes: 
This is the quickest and easiest method, and perfect for getting going on testing the accuracy of your seam allowance today. However, a pile of sticky notes shifts easily, and you need to carefully monitor your accuracy if you choose this method.

Ideal Seam Guide by Sew Very Smooth: 
This is a ruler with a sticky rubber backing that adheres on the base of your sewing machine, to the right of the needle. This is repositionable, and lint can be cleaned off of it, however it does shift more easily than the screw in guide or a ¼” foot. It works well on featherweights. The rubber can be replaced when it wears out, and it can accommodate a walking foot.

Moving the Needle on Your Machine to the Left or Right: 
This is another easy solution, but take care! When you turn off your machine, it may return to default settings. Leave yourself a note to remember to reset it before you begin sewing again.

Tip #2 – Consider How You Press (open or to the side) 
How you choose to press your seams affects the finished allowance. Pressing open leads to a more accurate allowance. But if you plan to send your quilt to a longarmer, or you envision some stitching in the ditch in your quilt’s future, then pressing seams to the side is advised. Regardless, it is always wise to double check and adjust your seam allowance with the materials and pressing methods you plan to use in your project.

Tip #3 – Consider Thickness of Thread 
The thread you are using to piece is eventually folded into the seam allowance when you press seams to the side. So consider using a finer weight thread (60 wt.) to sew seams.

Tip #4 – Use a Straight Stitch Sewing Machine or Needle Plate
A straight stitch machine or a single stitch needle plate actually improves the accuracy of your seam allowances! Many who have made the switch to a straight stitch machine or plate can vouch for the improvement in accuracy (myself included). The hypothesis is, with machines that are capable of a variety of stitches (i.e. zip zag stitches), there is more wiggle room for the needle to shift ever so slightly. A Straight Stitch Needle Plate can make stitches straighter and more aligned, with less shifting of fabric.

Tip #5 – Check your Seam Allowance

Ideal Seam Gauge: I love this particular tool because it has 10 options for measuring seam allowances, including a 1/8″, scant ¼”, a true ¼” and a 3/8″ allowance, among others. However this tool is pricey, at $20.

Old Fashioned Ruler Test: If you prefer not to buy an extra gadget, you can just place a ruler under your presser foot right on the ¼” mark, gently lower the needle, and then place the seam guide of your choice.

Perfect Piecer, By Jinny Beyer: (This is excellent for curves, or if your ¼” seam allowance tends to start off just right, and then tends to drift as you sew the seam!) With this tool, you can carefully mark dots that are precisely ¼” away from the edge of the fabric. Here’s a link to Jinny’s video showing how she uses her tool.

Sewing Test: Carefully cut three 1 ½” wide rectangles. Double check to make sure you have cut them accurately. Sew the three pieces together (along the longer seam) using your seam guide of choice. After sewing, the center strip of fabric should measure exactly 1″ wide. The piece as a whole should measure 3.5″ wide.

Index Card Test: My friend and mentor Mandy Leins wrote about her method for easily switching back and forth between two sewing machines, and checking to confirm the seam allowance is the same between the two.

My Favorite Seam Gauge/Seam Guide Combination:
My favorite combination of all of these previously mentioned tools and techniques is to use a straight stitch machine (I sew on a Janome 1600P), along with the Ideal Seam Gauge and the Screw-In Guide that came with the machine. Since I switched to these methods, my quilts lay flatter and fit together more precisely, and I shed a lot fewer tears! Here is a quick video showing my favorite combination in action.

Sewing Tips | Top Stitching Tips to Help You Stitch like a PRO!

Top stitching is what it sounds like – a line of stitches that show on the top of your project. Technically you can use any stitch and thread to topstitch a project, but if you want professional results and a polished finish, it’s best to learn to topstitch like the pros.

Top Stitching Tips:

1. Top stitching thread is heavier weight than traditional thread; you put this thread in the top of your machine and use regular sewing thread in the bobbin.
2. 90/14 is a special needle sized for top stitching; it has a larger eye to accommodate the thicker thread.
3. Your stitch line should be slightly longer than a joining stitch when you’re topstitching.
4. Sometimes your project might work better with a different thread & needle for topstitching;
5. Consider stepping outside of the thread matching box with a fun contrasting color – this can bring a pop of fun and pizzazz to your finished project.
6. Take your time and test on a piece of scrap fabric first. Make sure you use the same number of layers in your test swatch as you’ll have in the finished project, and test out a few different threads, needles, and stitch types/lengths before you decide on the real deal.
7. Topstitching  on knits is tricky. It is important to not have wavy/puckered seams. One way to avoid that is to use a twin needle for topstitching knits.
8. Stitch spacing from the edge is extremely important when topstitching. Consider using aguide foot for consistency.
9. Depending on the thickness of fabric layers, the tension may need adjusting. This is especially important with denim/jeans. Again, it’s always important to do a test piece first.
10. If you’re using a thicker fabric or a lot of layers, position some scrap fabric under the back of your presser foot before you begin to sew. This allows the presser foot to remain straight, horizontally, so that it doesn’t have to “climb uphill” to begin sewing the garment.
11. Don’t backstitch – at least, not in the traditional way. Instead of stitching back and forth a few times to begin and end your topstitching, first shorten your stitch length to something very short; backstitch just once back and forth, then lengthen your stitches and sew as normal. This creates a more subtle way to anchor your stitches.
12. When you’re finished sewing, pull the top threads to the bottom or back of the work and tie them in a knot with the lower threads, then trim.
13. Try on any garment before you start the topstitching. It’s much harder to unpick topstitching than it is to remove traditional seams.
14. Whenever possible, save all of your topstitching until the end of a project. That way you only have to change out your thread, needle, and stitch settings one time instead of going back and forth from traditional stitching to topstitching.
15. Stabilize fabrics as needed. Use spray starch to stabilize stretchy or thin fabrics before you sew. Another option is to add a layer of interfacing between the fabric layers, or to use tear-away stabilizer under the material and then tear it off when you’re finished sewing.
16. Add cording for extra impact. If you really want your topstitching to stand out, position a length of pearl cotton where you want the stitches to go, and then stitch over the cording with a narrow zigzag to hold it in place.
17. Trim seam allowances before topstitching. This reduces the bulk of the fabric under the stitches, making it easier to get a smooth, even finish.

Sewing Tips | What is the Walking Foot and What Does it Do

The most versatile of all sewing machine feet has to be The Walking Foot.
For years I have overheard sewists bragging about a sewing machine foot called the Walking Foot.  Conversations would go like this, “I used my Walking Foot on the binding,” or “You will have to use your Walking Foot for sewing with knits.”



The Walking Foot is an unusual looking foot that is designed to provide an extra set of feed dogs for the top of the fabric being sewn.  This makes managing unusual fabrics manageable. Matching plaids or specific designs becomes simple. All of the sudden knits flow through your machine without growing.  Slippery fabrics like minky cloth don’t slide all over the place.  Bulky projects like quilts walk together.

To begin with, the Walking Foot does not look like other sewing machine feet. It is big and bulky and has an arm that attaches to the needle bar.  This extra bar now tells the sewing machine to pull the top fabric through the sewing machine at the same rate it is pulling the bottom fabric.

My Walking Foot has three interchangeable soles.  The Standard (or basic) Sole {which is the most common} is for attaching most fabrics.  It is the one I use for knits and any fabric that has a give to it.  The Standard Sole also has 1/4″ marking which makes it great for attaching narrow seams on slippery fabrics.

The Quilting Sole is open and has better visibility for quilting.  The Quilting Sole also keeps quilt layers from slipping while machine quilting.

There is also an Edge-Stitching Sole.  This sole is perfect for edge stitching quilt pieces or {in my case} top stitching stretch denim.

To begin, attach the foot to the machine and attach the arm to the needle bar. It’s a little tricky.  I always attach mine from right-to-left.

I used the Standard (or basic) Sole to match color-blocked seams in this tutorial. I lined up my two matching colors and pinned.  Had I used a universal presser foot, my two matching fabrics might have slipped slightly.  Because I used a Walking Foot, the two fabrics matched perfectly.

The  Walking foot is also excellent for matching plaids and checks.  I’ve demonstrated this with a large-checked gingham.  However, this foot does a beautiful job matching stripes.

This matching did not require any skill.  I pinned the checks and stitched with the walking foot.  That’s how easy it is.

I found my Walking Foot invaluable when making stretch denim jeans.  If I hadn’t used it, the fabric would have stretched out too far.  This is true with knits, too.

Below, I’ve sewn a piece of knit using a regular foot.  Notice how the fabric stretches when I sew it.  Note: The tiny zigzag is a stitch designed for attaching knits.

Then, I used the same stitch but this time with the Walking Foot.  Can you see the difference?  I always sew knits using a Walking Foot.

Additionally, the Walking Foot is ideal for quilting applications.  When connecting quilting seam,s it can’t be beat.

The Walking Foot also prevents fabric from creeping when there are several layers.  A good example of this is machine quilting. When trying to quilt through several layers, the top fabric will go one way and the bottom fabric will go another ~ no matter how many pins you have.  This doesn’t happen with a Walking Foot.

My non-existent quilting skill aside, the Walking Foot does a spectacular job with layers.  Notice how my batting never shifted.

The Walking Foot is also ideal for any fabrics that tend to creep when sewing.  Think minky, silks, velvets, and pleats as I mentioned before.

The Walking Foot is what I would call an investment foot.  Mine retails for $180. I waiting almost a year for a sale (30% off) before I purchased it.  I consider it money well-spent, because I use it for sewing knits and jeans.

I originally purchased an off-brand through Ebay for around $50.  I used this Walking Foot for several years before giving it to a friend.  If you are thinking of purchasing one, check there first ~ especially with older machines.

There is one other option, but it is ex-spen-sive!  It’s a dual-feed feature that is built into very high end machines.  For around $10,000 this (and numerous other features) built-in walking foot can be yours.

credit: seasonedhomemaker