Whether you’re a novice sewist or a veteran, you want the items you sew to look polished and professional. With just a few simple steps, you can tweak your sewing habits to give your work that extra something special that will make anything you sew look like it could have come from an expensive boutique.
Just follow these steps and practice improving the smaller steps in the sewing process to see big results in the finished project!
Improve your sewing skills in 4 easy steps
Step 1: Cut your patterns carefully.
When you’re sewing something that has pattern pieces to cut around, be sure you press the pattern paper itself so the wrinkles won’t distort the shape of your cut fabric.
Pay attention to fabric grain: if the pattern tells you to cut something on the grain, this means that you should line up that pattern piece in the direction of the warp thread that was used to weave that fabric. (A way to check for this is to gently tug on the fabric; generally the “on the grain” direction will stretch less than the other direction.)
If your project calls for you to cut fabric in certain dimensions, be sure to measure twice before you cut. Use a ruler and a rotary cutter with a cutting mat to help you make clean, even lines that are also aligned with the fabric grain.
Step 2: Measure your seam allowances.
Don’t just assume that any old seam allowance will work for every project – a slight miscalculation in your seams for one part of your project could mean that the entire finished product comes out the wrong size.
Check the pattern directions and follow the seam allowance they specify, every time. Remember that the seam allowance may change for different parts of a project.
If you’re not sure how wide your seam allowance is going to be, try testing it on a scrap piece of fabric and then mark that position on your presser foot or sewing machine so that you can be sure to line it up properly every time.
Trim down your seam allowances after sewing, and make sure to clip around corners and curves. This reduces bulk and lets your project take on the proper shape.
Step 3: Press your fabric properly.
There is a difference between pressing and ironing, and that difference can make or break your project. Brush up on the basics here.
Use the proper pressing tools for your project – for curved edges or tight spaces it helps to have a pressing ham or a presser bar.
Use the correct heat setting for the fabric you’re pressing, and make sure to test a spare piece of the fabric with your iron before you press the actual project pieces.
Spray starch can help in pressing difficult fabrics or maintaining crisp lines, though there’s a bit of a debate about it in the sewing world.
Step 4: Details make a difference.
Don’t be afraid to sew something by hand if your project calls for it. Sometimes you have to stitch up the final seam on a stuffed toy, or hand-stitch the binding on a quilt, in order to get the best results from your project. Hand stitching does take more time than using a machine, but sometimes it’s time worth spending in order to make your project really stand out (in a good way).
Use decorative stitches to highlight an area of your project. Whether you use your sewing machine’s built-in stitches or hand sew some embroidery onto a project, these tiny details really add that extra something unique to your finished project.
For home decor and garment sewing, piping is a great way to highlight a particular area of a project or to take an average, everyday item and make it something really special. You can even make your own piping – it’s really not that hard!
credit: thesewingloftblog.com
Basket weaving is nothing new in fact, it was one of my favorite summer activities at girl scout camp. Like so many other things in life, this technique is making a comeback and I thought it would be fun to put a personal spin on it. So, let’s do some fabric weaving today.
Fabric Weaving – Pincushion Project
This project is for all levels.
Skill Level- 1 Button
Supplies:
assorted fabric
Steam-A-Seam 2
polyfil
Tools:
basic sewing supplies
sewing machine
Basic Instructions:
Cut 2 3 1/2″ x 8″ rectangles for the top and bottom of your pincushion. 6 strips 1 1/2″ wide by 22″ will be your fabric strips to create the fabric weave pattern. (I cut 3 strips from 2 different fabrics.)Fold, fold, fold….press, press, press. This triple fold will create clean edges on the sides. To keep things in place, I used steam a seam and sandwiched it together. I gave each fabric strip extra body. (total bonus.) Cut strips in half to create 12 1/2″ x 11″ strips.
Lay all of your horizontal pieces and pin in place. To keep things easy for me, ran a quick row of straight sticking along the edge. Then start weaving in your vertical strips. Alternating rows and pinning as I worked across the fabric. Since I wanted the purple to peek through, I left 1/4″ spacing between each row.
Once you have everything woven in place, run a quick stitch all around and trim away excess fabric strips.
Then your pincushion is pretty straight forward. Just like sewing a pillow together. Pin right sides together; stitch around 3 sides leaving an opening for turning. Clip corners and turn right side out.
Stuff, stuff, stuff!! I like to over stuff my pincushions. Stitch the opening closed with needle and matching thread. A simple ladder stitch is perfect for this last step. Need a refresher on the ladder stitch? Click here.
So, how did I do? Do you think fabric weaving will make a come back? Or should the technique be left to baskets and hemp? To keep the conversation going, I have teamed up with a few friends! Becky from Patchwork Posse
Marking your fabric is a standard part of sewing but understanding the different types of marking tools on the market is a totally different ballgame. Let’s explore our options and helpful tips on when to use.
Whether you’re tracing a template or transferring pattern markings, the type of tool that works best will depend on the type of fabric you’re using and the purpose you need it to fill. Always test your marking tool on a scrap piece of the same fabric first, because you just never know when a mark is going to be stubborn and refuse to come out! It’s always better to be safe than sorry.
Types of Marking Tools
Disappearing Ink Marker – This marker often has two ends – a water-soluble tip and a disappearing ink tip. If you use the water-soluble end, you’ll have to wash your fabric before you can get rid of the markings, but the benefit is that the markings will stay on your fabric for the duration of your sewing project. The disappearing ink doesn’t require washing, but it will (usually) disappear on its own so it may go away faster than you wanted it to.
Tip: Choose the disappearing ink for fabrics that will show water damage.
Caution: Make sure the disappearing ink has actually disappeared before you wash it, as the Sewing & Craft Alliance reports that detergent will permanently set this type of ink. Another warning from SCA? The chemicals in these markers deteriorate fabrics over time, so if you’re planning that heirloom quilt project, these might not be your best choice.
Fabric Pencils – Fabric pencils are water-soluble like markers. The problem is that the lines they draw are often very hard to see, but the benefit to pencils is that you can always sharpen them to get a fresh tip and they won’t dry out.
Tip: Use these pencils on darker fabrics; their light colors will be easier to see.
Caution: If the pencil forces you to apply a lot of pressure in order to see the marks you’re making, get a new marking tool. Putting that much pressure on the fabric can warp the grain before you sew it.
Tailor’s Chalk – Tailor’s chalk usually comes in the shape of a flat triangle or rectangle. Tailor’s chalk will rub right off the fabric when you’re finished with the markings, so it generally carries less risk than using a pencil or marker. The down side is that it can be messy, and sometimes the light coloring is difficult to see on light fabrics. Tailor’s chalk also comes in pencil form, which may be easier to use.
Tip: Keep your tailor’s chalk sharp for thin lines.
Caution: Some tailor’s chalks contain wax. Test with an iron on a scrap fabric to see if you can find a waxy residue left on your fabric after marking.
Tracing Wheel and Paper – Roll a tracing wheel onto your fabric to create a series of small indentations that will serve as temporary marks. Similar to carbon paper, tracing paper transfers markings with applied pressure. Simply sandwich the tracing paper between your fabric and your pattern and then use the tracing wheel to mark over the pattern outlines and markings.
Tip: Choose a color for your tracing paper that will show up on your fabric without being so dark that it shows through to the other side.
Caution: Only use tracing paper on the back or wrong side of your fabric.
Tailor’s Wax – Tailor’s wax is like a crayon you can use to mark your fabric. Since it is made of wax, you run the risk of staining your fabric. In theory it will come off with the heat of the iron, but that isn’t always true.
Tip: Tailor’s wax can be very useful with a heavy or thick fabric, such as wool.
Caution: Wax sometimes leaves residue on your fabric that can’t be removed, much like grease!
Can’t find your fabric marking tools but need to get that project finished? Don’t stress, instead head to your junk drawer for a quick rescue. These regular household items may be just what you need in a pinch. Like if your fabric tool has just run out.
School chalk – Sharpen a stick of traditional chalkboard chalk using a hand-held pencil sharpener.
Ballpoint pen – A ballpoint pen isn’t going to wash out of your fabric the way an actual fabric marking pen will but it works well in areas that won’t be seen.
Drawing marker – Raid your kid’s art supplies and find a marker for your next sewing project. A washable marker should wash out of the fabric when you’re finished.
Permanent markers – if you’re using a fabric that is particularly thick and nubby, such as fleece, a permanent marker might be just the thing you need. The sturdy, pointed tip will power through the bumps on the fabric and the line is sure to stay put when you’re finished drawing.
Soap – A bar of white soap will draw on your fabric like tailor’s chalk, and wash out when you’re finished.
Needle and thread – Some fabrics just won’t play nicely with any type of marking tool. In this case, thread a needle with a contrasting color of sewing or embroidery thread and use that to mark your pattern pieces. You can sew right through the thin pattern paper so your markings will be spot-on with accuracy. When you’re finished with the marked portion of your sewing project, simply snip and remove the extra thread.
credit: thesewingloftblog.com
What do you do with your extra fabric squares? Nearly a year ago, I collected these fabric charm squares from a couple of swaps on Craft Buds, and I still hadn’t used them. I need a quick and easy sewing project to come to my rescue!
Learn how to cut your own charm squares
To make this bunting, you’ll need:
– 17 fabric charm squares, 5″ x 5″ (I used repeats of each of 9 prints, and used all but 1)
– One 3-yard package of bias tape or quilt binding (I used Wright’s extra wide double fold)
– Pinking shears or a pinking rotary blade
– Sewing pins, thread and sewing machine
First, mark one of of the charm squares by folding it down the center line. Fold from the bottom of that center line to each corner, and press the fold with your fingernail to mark.
If you have a rotary cutter, you may want to purchase a pinking rotary blade. Otherwise, a pair of pinking shears works great. Aside from making your bunting flags very cute, these pinked edges will keep the fabric from fraying!
Cut along the diagonal lines you marked to make a triangle. I stacked and cut through two charm squares at a time to save time.
To cut the rest of your triangles, simply fold the charm squares as described above, or use a previous bunting flag and trace the edges with your fingernail. Remove the top flag and cut along the marked line.
Arrange your bunting flags in the order you’d like.
Open up the bias tape and insert the non-pinked edge of your triangle flags into the fold. Pin each flag in place, leaving a 1/2″ to 1″ gap between each one. I left a few inches of the bias tape empty on each end, for hanging.
Once the flags are trapped inside of the binding, head to your sewing machine. You can sew the bias tape together with a straight stitch or a wide zig-zag stitch, like I used.
Continue to stitch the bunting closed, sewing in the flags while you remove the pins.
Ta-da! Admire your festive fabric bunting!
Variations:
– If you don’t like the look of pinked edges, cut the triangles with straight edges, and sew two triangles together on the long sides, with the right sides of each fabric facing. Turn the flags right side out and press. Finish the bunting by placing the raw edges inside the bias tape and sewing shut.
– If you prefer, skip the triangles and just make a bunting from the 5″ x 5″ charm squares. With the right sides facing, stitch together a pair of charm squares on three sides. Turn right side out and press. Placing the raw edges inside the bias tape and sew the bunting shut.
credit: www.craftbuds.com
The ¼-inch seam allowance is a staple in almost any sewing or quilting pattern on the market. You may have been guesstimating your own seam allowances in the past, but this is a big mistake. The difference between “exactly ¼ inch” and “nearly ¼ inch” can make or break a finished sewing project by the end, as all of those little near-misses add up to one big difference in the finished dimensions of your project.
Take a quilt block, for instance – if your block is supposed to have four seams of ¼ inch each, and your seams are actually ½ inch, then your finished block will wind up being one full inch too small when you’re finished sewing it! In many quilting projects, your fabric will start to ripple and pucker if you use improper seam allowances as you sew, giving your finished project a flawed look.
Create The Perfect 1/4″ Seam
There’s a simple way to avoid these problems: take a little time to practice the perfect 1/4″ seam! This sewing tip will empower you to master any project in the world of sewing and quilting, so let’s get started!
Supplies/tools:
scrap fabric pieces, approx. 2-3 inches wide by 4-5 inches long
sewing machine
thread
quilting ruler
Testing your 1/4” seams:
1) Take two scraps of fabric and position them with right sides together. Sew a straight seam with your regular seam allowance as if you were piecing a quilt block.
2) Take the fabric out of your sewing machine and lay it flat on the table in front of you. Use your ruler to measure the seam allowance from the sewn seam to the edge of the fabric…. Is it 1/4”?
3) Make adjustments depending on the answer
● Is your seam too big? Sew again, going just a little bit closer to the edge of the fabric, and re-measure. (It might be easiest to use a new pair of fabric scraps every time so you don’t confuse the seams.) Repeat until you know exactly how to sew a 1/4” seam.
● Is your seam too small? Sew again, going just a little bit wider; re-measure and repeat as needed.
After you have found the sweet spot of seams, place a strip of tape (washi tape works well for this as it’s easy to see) along the machine so you know where to line your fabric up as you sew. Does your machine have markings next to that place already? Mark the line or measurement which will give you perfect 1/4” seam allowance.
It only takes a few minutes to find that perfect fabric position to give you accurate ¼ inch seams, but those few minutes will save you hours of headaches in the future of your sewing!
credit:thesewingloftblog.com
A Homecoming Makeover – so you can have the confidence that the once-strapless dress will not fall off or need tugged at all evening.
I will be brutally honest here – I very much dislike strapless dresses. While they can be structured and sewn to fit the wearer in the proper way so that they stay where they belong and look like they will stay put, they very seldom are. Most bridal and prom dresses are mass-produced, therefore there are very few people they really fit properly. They can be altered but it can be costly and time-consuming to do it properly.
Please know that if you wear strapless dresses or you like strapless dresses, I am not judging you! This is my opinion and you certainly are entitled to your own!!!!
This pattern is perfect to use when adding a top to a strapless dress. I had the pattern from an earlier wedding project and it came in very handy for this homecoming makeover. You could use a bodice pattern from another pattern but this works so well since you don’t have to figure out where to cut the bottom of the bodice off.
See how the shape of the pattern piece follows the shape of the top of the dress? 
The first piece I cut out I could tell right away was going to be too wide. So I recut it and pulled the fold line off the fold about 1/2 inch. Being on the fold that took an inch out of the center. By taking it out of the center it keeps the neckline from being to big and floppy.
If you are using a pattern that has a whole bodice front instead of just the top, you could cut it to match the dress as shown here.
I cut two pieces out of the sheer fabric and sewed them right sides together along the neck edge. I used pinking shears to trim that seam – using pinking shears eliminates the need to clip the curves and allows the curves to lay nicely when pressed together. Most patterns do not tell you to use 2 pieces like this – they either have a facing to finish the neck seam or they have you make a small hem. I like this method better. I think it looks much more finished and professional. And I also like two layers of the sheer better than one.
For the back we wanted just a wide strap-like piece instead of a whole bodice. I cut out the back using the bodice back pattern piece…
And then just trimmed of the center and side to look like I thought it should. I know this is totally winging it, and if you don’t like to wing it this won’t help you much! But it’s how I do I cut out 2 pieces for each side and sewed them right sides together along the center angle I cut, trimmed the seam, turned and pressed.
Next I sewed the back pieces to the front at the shoulder seams and turned it all right side out and pressed it neatly.
Because I was winging it, I had to trim the edges to match after sewing the shoulder seams.
I then turned right sides together along the sides and stitched. Turn right side out by pulling the back through the front. Press.
Pin to top of dress. Try on the person to be wearing it. At this point I tucked and pinned everything where it needed to be while the lovely little lady was wearing the dress From there I was able to sew everything down tightly so it would stay put.
I started by hand sewing the sheer fabric to the dress along the edge from the front.
Then I went to the inside of the dress and stitched it down tightly from the inside, turning the raw edges under as I went.
Homecoming Makeover complete! The dress is no longer strapless. No looking or feeling like it is going to fall off, no tugging it up all night long!
I loved the color of this dress – I call it Champagne.
