Showing posts with label
#alborj #sewing #machine #needle #thread #stitching #fashion #newlook #SewingTips #sewingessential.
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Showing posts with label
#alborj #sewing #machine #needle #thread #stitching #fashion #newlook #SewingTips #sewingessential.
Show all posts
Welcome to Episode 6 in the How to Sew A Skirt Sew-along series. The subject for today is: All about Zipper Feet
What do those Zipper Feet do?
If you plan to sew any kind of woven garment you will usually need to include a closure of some sort to allow you to get it on and off. Usually a dress or skirt will have a zipper.
There are three basic types of sewing machine zipper foot.
- The standard fixed zipper foot that may have come as standard with your sewing machine. (left)
- The adjustable zipper foot. (middle)
- An invisible zipper foot. (right)
All zipper feet allow you to sew one side or the other and get your stitches up close to the teeth of the zipper. You might sew on the outside rather than the center of the foot. Let's look at each of them in more detail.
Standard Zipper Foot (left)
May come as standard when you buy your sewing machine. The fixed zipper foot has a little notch either side for your needle so you can use it left or right handed to sew either side of your zipper tape. Best used for regular zippers with the teeth visible on the outside. This is my least favorite foot because you have to move it to the left or the right and so the pressure from the presser foot is always off center one way or the other and I find the fabric doesn't feed through so well and the foot doesn't always sit flat to the zip and fabric. Will work if this is the only one your have.
Adjustable zipper foot (middle)
The most versatile of the three. The adjustable zipper foot has many applications and can be used to sew almost any type of zipper. Also good for top-stitching and sewing in areas where the regular foot might be too wide. The foot can be positioned left or right, and you can adjust the positioning of the needle to exactly where you want it to be to allow for very close stitching.
You can also use the adjustable foot with an invisible zipper – simply flatten the zipper teeth as you sew just in front of the presser foot to sew as close as possible to the zipper teeth. If you don't have an invisible zipper foot, this one can work instead.
Invisible zipper foot (right)
In some ways, the least versatile because it can only be used for invisible zippers. However, if you give this foot a try you will love it! Sews invisible zippers with ease, again using a left or right hand channel and creates a beautifully close stitching line which will make your zippers truly invisible from the outside. Centers the pressure from the presser foot and uses a central needle position so feeding through goes smoothly and accurately too. Well worth adding to your sewing toolbox.
How to use your Zipper Feet
In the next post I will be showing you a step by step photo tutorial for how to sew an invisible zipper into our skirt project. However, before we do this, I HIGHLY recommend that you watch the free online video course from Craftsy – Mastering Zipper Techniques.
It's entirely free and the teacher is lovely. She shows you how to sew a regular zipper, an invisible zipper and a lapped zipper over the course of several short lessons. Watch them all, or just the ones you are interested in. Then you will be well prepared when it comes to sewing your skirt zipper.
Our next steps
- A quick recap of what we have completed so far –
- Overview, tools and equipment and choosing your fabric
- Drafting your custom fit pattern, and all about ease and seam allowances
- Cutting your fabric and pattern matching
- Marking darts perfectly
- Sewing darts perfectly
- All about zipper feet
credit: so-sew-easy.com
It’s been on my mind for a while now because my local fabric store has a selection of vinyl, ideally for the local boating industry, but there’s no reason I couldn’t use it to make some awesome bags. I’d heard that vinyl was difficult to sew with so I’ve been putting it off until I could assemble the right supplies.
Now there is a project on the work-table that I think you’ll love and the pattern for the bag you see above is coming soon. Before you jump right in, here are a few tips and tricks to make sewing with vinyl and faux leathers nice and simple.
Recommended supplies for working with vinyl
- Non-stick Teflon foot or roller foot
- Leather Needle
- Wonder Clips
Tips for sewing with vinyl
Needles – Firstly, vinyl is thicker than cotton so we need to be mindful of creating too much thickness and too many layers so that the sewing machine might struggle. It’s best to use a needle designed for leather or vinyl and I used these Leather Needles from Schmetz. They coped beautifully with the vinyl and went straight through with no issues or skipped stitches.
Pins – Vinyl is pierced if we use pins and there will be a permanent hole. That’s OK if you are only using pins within the seam allowances where these holes will be hidden, but I used Wonder Clips on my vinyl. I use them a lot in bag making because they are good with thick layers too. Even if you don’t sew with vinyl, these should be an essential tool in your sewing kit.
Even if using pins within the seam allowance, its pretty thick so that can be challenging. No wonder clips? Try small binder clips or mini clothes pins too. Warning – don’t leave clips on your vinyl overnight or long term as they can leave an impression in the spongy material.
Presser feet – The most often heard problem with sewing vinyl is that it can feel ‘sticky’ when under pressure from the presser foot and doesn’t feed through your machine smoothly. You can eliminate this problem entirely by just sewing on the reverse side where it’s usually backed with a fabric and will feed through without problem, if you keep the vinyl away from the machine bed and presser foot. That won’t work for this bag coming up because we need to top stitch on the vinyl side so you’ll need to consider what presser foot to use.
I bought this Teflon coated foot and was just waiting for the right time to use it, and it was superb. Smooth as butter with no sticky feeling at all. You can also use a roller foot too, although I’ve not tried that myself.
Don’t have either and don’t feel like getting one? Then your next best option that should get you through this project is to coat the bottom of your regular presser foot with something to stop the metal coming into contact with the vinyl. Stick a couple of pieces of MATTE sticky tape or painters tape to the bottom and it should work OK – not as well as using the Teflon foot, but I think you’ll be fine.
A reader has recently suggested using teflon coated tape, which sounds like a pretty good idea. The tape looks durable and is supposed to give the same sort of non-stick properties that a teflon foot is supposed to provide. I haven’t tried it but if anyone out there can give it a try and let us know in the comments below, it would be greatly appreciated.
You can also add some strips of the tape next to the feed dogs on the metal throat plate of the machine too, and this can help the sticky fabric glide through more easily if facing vinyl side down.
credit: so-sew-easy.com
I must admit, I am new to blogging, but I wanted to start with a topic that is near and dear to my heart.
So many people spend hundreds of dollars on a good sewing machine, use it for a few months and then they give up, and put it back in the box in the basement where it remains for years –untouched. Somewhere in their sewing journey, many aspiring sewers become afraid or demotivated because the project did not turn out the way they wanted. A big pile of unfinished garments is a dead give away! Our brain is trained to look for inconsistencies and it is how we judge beauty. Unconsciously, we know something is off and we give up before we finish.The reason for this doomed journey starts at the fabric store but is often made worse by how we end up cutting the fabric. Here are my top 5 mistakes to avoid when cutting fabric.
The reason for this doomed journey starts at the fabric store but is often made worse by how we end up cutting the fabric. Here are my top 5 mistakes to avoid when cutting fabric.
#1. Not washing the fabric before cutting.
Natural fibers come from vegetable material (cotton, hemp, flax etc) or animals (wool, cashmere, silk, alpaca etc). Below I have tested a 100% cotton swatch measuring 10 x 10cm, I soaked and washed the swatch and ironed it with a very hot iron. As you can see in the second photograph the swatch shrunk considerably, this is because when fabrics are being woven the fibers are being tensed.
When these fibers come in contact with water they relax, but by applying heat once again, the fibers go back to their original state. This process is similar to how a spring works. Normally it will take several washes for some fabrics to relax as it would in a spring. A good example of this is cotton and linen. Both fabrics become smooth after a few washes, but when too much heat is applied –for example when we forget the cloth in the dryer for too long– the size of the garment will shrink considerably.
#2. Not squaring and truing the fabric.
To understand squaring and truing we need to learn a couple of terms that relate to fabrics. On the picture below, the yarn being pulled is called the weft. The yarn that runs perpendicular to it is the warp. In order to true the fabric we need to make a cut on the weft, pull the thread and cut in the space that is left by the thread, as is seen on the picture.
The weft, wrap and selvage of fabric
To be able to square the fabric one most cut away the selvage which is the fuzzy edge that runs along the length of the fabric or, as is known, the warp of the fabric. Cut away the edge by making a cut and pulling the thread and cutting the same way you did with the weft or the horizontal thread.
Sometimes when you go the fabric store, the chatty woman at the counter makes a cut in the fabric and rips your piece out, this action actually distorts the shape of your fabric. In the following picture, you can see the effect of this action. I lost almost a bit more than a 1/4 of a yard getting the fabric to have a uniformed edge!
Find the true edge of the fabric to cut on grain.
To square the fabric, after you have taken the selvage out, get someone to help you pull one corner of the fabric while you pull the diagonal corner, change and do the other corners. You are trying to restore the shape of the fabric. This step is particularly important if you are using cotton/elastane combination.
stretching fabric on a the bias to regain the original shape of the fabric
#3. Not following pattern instructions for placement of the fabric grain.
Ending up with something so tight that it looks like Shapewear or a too-short mini skirt because you didn’t shrink your fabric before sewing is still not as bad as not using the grain of the fabric to place your pattern. To find the grain of your fabric, all you have to do is square and true the fabric, join the side where the selvage was and fold the fabric.
The fabric grain is indicated on the pattern as the long arrow that runs the length of the pattern piece it will cause the fabric to hang correctly because it will be cut at a right angle. Not only does it look bad, it’s annoying to wear because your skirt or pants will keep twisting around or clinging to you, but more importantly, the pieces of your pattern will not match. This is simply because the fabric will stretch at an angle. A perfect example of this is a skirt cut on a bias. We’ve all had t-shirts where they cut slightly off grain to save time and it twists around the torso.
Avoid this by making sure to place your pattern pieces accurately on grain when you cut out your patterns. You can achieve this by measuring the distance from the selvage to the grain arrow and making sure it is equidistance, as show on the picture below.
Placing the pattern on the grain of the fabric
#4 Not having enough fabric to match plaids or stripes.
This is the classic mistake easily avoided by buying more fabric and placing the pattern so it matches the prints or plaid. On your pattern, mark where the most prominent color. In my example below, I have marked the brown color in all the pattern pieces, because is the most dominant, notice how you actually will use more fabric because not only you have to use the direction of the color, but also you have to maintain the grain of the fabric. As a rule, how much fabric you will need, will always depend on your size and the width of the fabric you intend to use.
how to match plaids when cutting fabric
#5 Using the wrong fabric.
A thin silky fabric will not make an appealing jacket due to its lack of structure. It would however, make a very good lining. A knit fabric will perform differently from a woven fabric because of the stretchability of the knit, therefore, the pattern pieces on a knitted garment are going to be less wide than normal patterns. All Patterns will give you suggestions for what fabrics to use. It is possible to substitute the fabric according to its drapability.
Follow the instructions on the back of the envelope to the letter. It will be clearly marked what kind of fabric will be best suited for the pattern, study the drawing, see how the garment falls away or clings to the body. Look at the illustration and try to match what the designer have used.
credit: so-sew-easy.com
Happy New Year, Sew Daily troupe! I hope your holidays were lovely!
Did you know getting organized ranked as the sixth most popular resolution last year according to Nielsen? (Getting in shape is No. 1, shocker.) I’m sure “getting organized” is a perennial favorite in the pantheon of resolutions, and if Nielsen specifically tracked sewists’ resolutions, it might rank No. 1.
If you’ve resolved to master your sewing domain this year, you’re going to need places to put all those things, and these items definitely do the trick:
Storage dedicated to fabric. No one sewist’s stash is alike. You’ve got scraps of this, fat quarters of that and yards and yards of that print you swore you’d use two years ago but never did. You can sort it according to type, color, size/amount or intended purpose, but the most important thing is to store fabric in a way that reminds you to use it. I love this fat quarter shelf tower because it can take on fabric of any size besides fat quarters, and the clear doors let you see what you have at your disposal. It also maximizes vertical space, something professional organizers preach.
Mobile storage. Even if you’re lucky enough to have an entire room or studio dedicated to your endeavors, chances are you change your setup from time to time. Not all notions only live at the ironing board or cutting mat, either, so furniture on wheels is a must, like this portable cube. It reminds me of my dad’s toolbox. The right tool is always right at your fingertips.
Thread keepers. Try to organize thread in the same vein as fabric, stored in a way that it still makes its presence known and lets you know what colors you have at your disposal. Thread racks (like this metal one and this wooden one) do just that and really take advantage of that whole “organization as décor” concept. If you’re less keen on looking at all of your stuff all of the time, these bins are the right height for storing spools. And don’t forget bobbins! This bobbin tower is perfect for organizing those pesky little guys.
Vertical space. Remember how I said professionals love to think vertically and horizontally? You can only fit so many horizontal surfaces (table tops and desks) into a room, so take advantage of those other flat surfaces, the walls! Even though it’s called a quilt wall, you can use a quilt wall to design other projects and free up your table for cutting, pressing, sewing etc. You won’t have to worry about other things you put on the table messing up your design or layout.
A place to be messy. We all have that one drawer full of stuff that’s hard to classify. That’s life, and that’s also sewing. I love this caddy for just that reason. Random or one-off items can go in it as a catch-all, but it’s somewhat sheer so you’re aware of what’s available. It’s also not too large so it forces you to keep your clutter in check. It can live at the sewing table so the contents are within reach, and then you can remove it to put things back.
Pattern saving. These clear zippered pouches are meant for storing small projects in progress, but I like them for storing patterns. There’s less pressure on the original envelope to hold up over time. There’s also a larger version too.
credit: sewdaily.com
On many of the supply lists for projects in Stitch, you'll find the following: "Optional: Walking foot for your sewing machine."
The walking foot helps keep thick, slippery, or sticky fabric layers from shifting as you sew.
This raglan knit was top stitched without the benefit of a walking foot.
Look what a difference using a walking foot makes!
These comparison photos courtesy of The Sewing Workshop.
If the designer is a little more opinionated, it may read: "Optional, but helpful …"
So what does this odd-shaped foot do, and is it: optional, helpful, or … necessary?
Basically, the walking foot provides a gripping action from the top of the fabric which coordinates with the grip of the feed dogs which are built into the bed of your sewing machine.As the bottom feed dogs pull–or feed–the fabric under the needle so that even stitches are created, the walking foot is gripping and pulling the fabric through from the top.
So when is a walking foot "Optional"?
• If you're working with two layers of a fairly stable woven fabric, there is very little need for a walking foot. The pressure of your feed dogs against a standard foot provides all the friction necessary for the fabric layers to move through smoothly.
What are the "Optional, but Helpful" uses?
• When working with laminates or oilcloth, a walking foot definitely helps to keep these "sticky" fabrics moving.
• If you have several layers of fabric or heavier, canvas-type fabrics, it's often difficult for the machine foot to provide enough pressure to keep the fabric layers from shifting. Frequent pinning may solve the problem, but a walking foot is, well, helpful.
And how about the "Necessary" category?
• If you are quilting layers of fabric with batting, a walking foot keeps all the layers stable and moving smoothly. This is true whether you're making a bed-size quilt or a small tote.
• And here is a little known–but my new favorite use for the walking foot: topstitching on knits. No more watching the knits creep and bunch as you finish neck edges or hems. I learned this trick from Linda Lee of The Sewing Workshop and now can't imagine working with knits without my walking foot.
That being said, may I also say that in sewing, I'm always a bit hesitant to use the word "necessary". I've done a tremendous amount of fairly complex sewing on an old Sears machine which has no bells and maybe one whistle. So when I use the word "necessary", I don't mean that it is absolutely impossible to complete a project without it. It is simply that the process is so much less laborious and the results are so much more successful with the foot than without it.
Walking feet are not inexpensive, but depending on the type of projects you work on, your sewing can be a lot more pleasant when you use one.
credit: sewdaily.com
Do you sometimes get angry at your straight pins? You know, when you can’t wiggle them through that darn fabric? Yeah…..pins aren’t really something to get angry at but, gahhhhh, nothing’s more aggravating while working on a project than finicky straight pins that won’t properly go through your fabric. And usually they get stuck because there are several layers of fabric that I’m trying to get through……however, if you have a really cranky needle, even one single layer of fabric can be stubborn. And yes, sharpening the very tip of the needle is helpful too. (You know that mini strawberry that hangs off the big tomato pin cushion? Yeah, that has emery powder inside and can help sharpen a needle tip and smooth out any rust or nicks, etc. However, even then, sometimes I still have trouble getting those sharpened needles through the fabric.)
But try this…….it will change your cranky straight pin world! Just stick them right into a bar of soap, pull it out, and wah-laa……..all lubed up. Go on, grab a bar of soap and try it, I know you’re intrigued. :) The soap gives the pin the slightest coating and helps that little pin move right through your fabric. I’m serious, go give it a try.
And you know, not all my pins are stubborn. So, I just keep a bar of soap on a little plate near my sewing table. While pinning a project, if I come across a dull needle, I stick it into the bar of soap……and then resume. Pesky little pins aren’t gonna slow me down!
Oh, and have you ever been to the fabric store, and the lady behind the counter is trying to put the fabric back together on the bolt and pin the flap of fabric in place, and her pin gets stuck?? So she runs the pin through her hair? Well, yep, she’s lubing that pin up with the grease of her hair. (Have you actually seen that happen? It actually kind of grosses me out a bit…..but every time I see someone do it, I know exactly why. Maybe I should bring them a bar of soap on a plate as a gift.)
I have seen others dip their needles into wax but if you use soap, I feel like if there’s any sort of soap residue that gets onto the fabric, it will wash right out. Wax is a little more tricky to wash out (even though it would only be a tiny amount)…..so in my brain, soap makes me worry a little less.
And the best part, that one little bar of soap will last you forever. And ha, you thought you needed to keep buying new packages of straight pins.
credit: makeit-loveit.com
