Showing posts with label #alborj #sewing #machine #needle #thread #curved #seams #stitching. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #alborj #sewing #machine #needle #thread #curved #seams #stitching. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 2, 2016

LEARN TO SEW SERIES ZIGZAG STITCH

Welcome to week 2 of the Learn to Sew series! If you survived Week 1 you are going to breeze right through Week 2 because it’s not too much different. You’ll still be sewing a straight line, but with a zigzag stitch instead of a straight stitch this time.

Now, let’s talk about how to sew a zigzag stitch.


 

HOW TO SEW A ZIGZAG STITCH:

First of all let’s talk about what a zigzag stitch is and why you would use it. A zigzag stitch is just that-a stitch that zigzags. It looks like this:



Pretty basic right? But why would you use a zigzag? There are a couple of reasons:

1. A zigzag is a more sturdy stitch, so if you need something held extra tight, a zigzag is the stitch to use. That’s what I use when attaching the hood on my hooded towels because I know it will hold nice and tight.

2. A zigzag can be used to prevent fraying. If you are sewing clothing or something that you want to have be really nice and you don’t want any raw edges to fray, you can zigzag them first. (That is if you don’t have a serger.)

3. Zigzags are used in applique and button holes. We are going to learn about those more in Lesson 7.

So, let’s get started sewing.

To sew a zigzag stitch you are going to start out just the same as you did with your straight stitch fromLesson #1. Thread your bobbin and your machine. Somewhere on your machine is going to be a way to change from a straight stitch to a zigzag. Up above you can see a picture of how mine does it (mine is computerized). It may be a picture of a zigzag or it may be a number or letter that indicates what stitch you are doing. Check your manual for help on this. (See also the Meet Your Machine post.)

Set your machine to zigzag. The basic zigzag stitch is going to be of average length and average width:



But you will be able to change the stitch width and the stitch length as needed. Here are some examples:

On this one I have adjusted the WIDTH of the stitch to be larger. See how the zigzag is very big and wide?



But on this one I adjusted the LENGTH of the stitch-making the stitches long and farther apart:



Here they are closer together, meaning I adjusted the LENGTH again and in this case I also adjusted theWIDTH and made it a little smaller:



And on this one I adjusted the LENGTH almost as low as it could go:



When you have a really tight zigzag where the stitches are right up next to each other, that’s called a Satin Stitch.

Are you getting a sense of how you can adjust your stitches? Find where you do this on your machine and play around with it a little.

Now, typically when using a zigzag you can just keep your stitch width and length at a nice average setting. But it’s good to know how to change it as needed.

To sew a zigzag, LOWER your presser foot and your needle into the fabric. Make sure your machine is set on zigzag and sew an inch forward. Just like with the straight stitch, now push the reverse button and sew an inch backwards (back-stitching) and then go forward again. You have now knotted your thread and can continue sewing. Again, you can still use the edge of the presser foot or the seam guides to help you sew straightly.



One more thing to note. You’ll notice that sometimes that zigzag will make the fabric kind of gather in a tunnel underneath it. This can happen on lightweight fabric. There is a way around this. On your machine, the setting next to zigzag will look like a zigzag but dotted. This will do a zigzag but with three stitches per zig to help prevent the tunnel effect.

And that’s it. Not too hard is it? Do you have questions?

YOUR ASSIGNMENT:

Now we need to practice and sew something new! Here’s how your assignment works:
Pick a project-I will give you several options here, you are also welcome to choose something of your own, just be careful to make sure that it is in your ability range. Sew it up this week! Take some pics and share online if you would like. Tag me! @crazylittleprojects
Come back and enter to win a big package of thread in the giveaway below!

Advanced Track:
Your option is to select a stitch on your machine that you are not familiar with, learn about it and try it on a project. For example, try a stretch stitch and make a Maxi skirt!

Tuesday, July 14, 2015

15-Minute Pillowcase: Learn the Burrito Method | Al Borj

15-Minute Pillowcase: Learn the Burrito Method

Pillowcases can be a fun project to sew, even for beginners and kids! In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to sew a quick pillowcase using either a regular sewing machine or a serger. If you have a serger, that’s the one I’d recommend, because it’ll save you a step!
Make a new set of pillowcases for your bed, stitch some up for a gift or gather your friends and sew pillowcases for charity! Learn the “burrito pillowcase method” with this tutorial.
Pillowcase tutorial

Materials:

  • 3/4 yard (27″ x width of fabric from selvage to selvage) of the main fabric
  • 1/4 yard (9″ x width of fabric from selvage to selvage) of coordinating fabric for the cuff
  • 2″ x width of fabric (from selvage to selvage) strip of solid fabric for accent, pressed in half lengthwise to make a 1″ folded strip
Featured fabric is Trendsetter from Fancy Pants Designs for Riley Blake.
Lay out the fabric

Step 1.

Layer the fabrics in front of you as follows:
  • Place the 9″ coordinating fabric right up.
  • On top of that, place the 27″ main fabric right side up, aligning the top raw edges.
  • On the very top, place the folded accent strip, so that the raw edges are aligned with the top raw edges of the other pieces.
Roll the 27" main fabric panel into a little tube or "burrito."

Step 2.

Starting at the bottom and working your way up, begin to roll the 27″ main fabric panel into a little tube or “burrito.” Stop rolling when you get about to the center of the 9″ coordinating fabric.
Second view of the "burrito"

Step 3.

Here’s another view of what your stack will look like. Double check to make sure this is what you see. Coordinating fabric on the bottom, right side up. Main fabric on top of that, right side up. Folded accent strip on top of that, raw edges aligned with other raw edges.
Take the bottom of the coordinating fabric, and bring it up over the burrito

Step 4.

Next, take the bottom of the coordinating fabric (chevrons), and bring it up over the burrito. Align the raw edges with the raw edges of all the other fabrics. Pin in place along the raw edges, making sure to trap the skinny accent strip as well.
Sew with a 1/4" seam along the raw edges

Step 5.

Sew with a 1/4″ seam along the raw edges, or you may use a serger as pictured.
Begin to tug at the fabric inside the burrito

Step 6.

Begin to tug at the fabric inside the burrito, pulling it out of the tube.
Press the burrito pillowcase

Step 7.

Continue pulling until your pillowcase looks like this. Press flat, paying close attention to the accent strip and coordinating fabric.
trim off the selvages

Step 8.

It’s time to trim off the selvages and get your pillowcase to the right size! First, trim the pillowcase so it is 28″ from the accent strip to the opposite end. Then, remove the selvages so the pillowcase is only 40″ wide. I like to fold my pillow case in half like this so it is easier to measure and cut the 40″ length (which means trimming to 20″ when folded in half).

Finishing with a Serger

Step 9.

If you are using a serger, fold the pillowcase in half as pictured above, and serge the raw edges on the top and right sides only. Turn right side out and press. You’re done!
Fold the pillowcase in half with wrong sides together

Finishing with a sewing machine

Step 10.

If you are using a sewing machine, you’ll want to sew a french seam on those sides, so you have a nice finished edge. First, fold the pillowcase in half with wrong sides together, as pictured above.
Stitch a line 1/4" on the two sides with raw edges

Step 11.

Next, stitch a line 1/4″ on the two sides with raw edges only. This will go against your intuition as a sewist, unless you’re familiar with french seams.
Press the pillowcase

Step 12.

Turn the pillowcase wrong side out and press, poking out the corners. Now, sew a 3/8″ seam (or a 1/2″ if you prefer) on the same two sides you sewed earlier. This will trap the raw edges inside and make a nice, clean finished edge.
Finished seam inside the pillowcase

Step 13.

Here’s what the finished french seam looks like on the inside of the pillowcase. This not only looks prettier, but it will be more durable than an unfinished seam.
Pillowcase tutorial with Riley Blake fabrics
That’s it! You’ve finished your pillowcase with serged edges or french seams. You can also make the pillow without the 2″ accent strip, or sew it up in all one fabric for a more traditional look!