HOW TO TOPSTITCH KNIT FABRIC

Knit fabrics are great to wear and fun to sew with but they can be a little tricky to handle. I was intimidated by them for a long time but with a lot of practice and a few tricks I picked up along the way, I’ve been able to conquer those stretchy beasts. Today, I’m going to share my favorite method for topstitching knit fabrics plus some tips and insight on why knits can be so bothersome. And don't worry, you don't need a fancy machine, this can all be done on a conventional sewing machine. 



TIP ONE: Feed your fabric.

The big difference between sewing knits and woven fabric is the stretch. A basic sewing machine does a great job of feeding your woven fabric under the needle but it can be challenging to feed a stretchy knit fabric. The fabric can bunch up, get stuck in the throat plate and the stitch length will be uneven and wobbly.

I have two methods for helping feed your fabric through a conventional machine. Option 1, use a walking foot (on left in photo above) when stitching knits. The walking foot has feed dogs on the top that help move the fabric evenly under the needle. Option 2, (if you don’t have a walking foot) place strips of tissue paper underneath your fabric as you stitch. When you’re done, gently tear the paper away. The paper creates a stable base for the fabric that the feed dogs can grab onto and push under the needle.

TIP TWO: Stitch with stretch

Your fabric is going to stretch as you wear it, so you want your stitches to stretch too. If the thread can't stretch, the stitching can break (you can actually hear a pop when this happens). To create a stretchy topstitch, use a twin needle or a zig zag stitch. The twin needle has two threads on the top and one on the bottom (the bobbin). The bobbin thread will be slightly stretched between the two top threads. I like to use wooly nylon (or fluff thread) in the bobbin. It’s a stretchy thread that will help your stitching lay flat. The zig zag stitch is also a great option for topstitching. It looks a little less professional than the twin needle but if your thread matches the fabric quite well you probably won't be able to see the stitching anyway. And sometimes the zig zag looks really cool. 



USING A TWIN NEEDLE

My machine (Brother CS-6000i) has specific threading instructions for using a twin needle and I recommend reading your manual to make sure you do it the way your machine likes. I first tried a twin needle when I was in high school and I just couldn’t get it to work. I bet if I had read the manual (or if sewing blogs existed back then :) I would have been able to make it work. I was scared to do it again for a long time after that because it didn’t work just that one time. But I finally gave it another go, read the manual and now I love it.

A twin needle is the best way to get two lines of stitching that are perfectly spaced from each other. There are varying widths of twin needles so you can have a little fun and try different looks. Above you can see the 2mm on the left and a 4mm on the right. I really love the wider needle but if I'm topstitching a narrow seam allowance in place (like on a neckline) I prefer the narrower needle. The wide needle can end up topstitching with one needle on the seam allowance and one on the outside which then creates a ridge.



WOOLY NYLON THREAD

Discovering this thread was something of a revelation. The wooly nylon thread is a stretchy thread that's made up of multiple strands. I've read that it's often used when serging and with undergarments. So far I've only used it in the bobbin when topstitching and I totally love it. When using regular thread in the bobbin, the two top threads can pull together a little and create a ridge. The stretch of the wool nylon lets the two top threads lay flat. Yay! I have one spool in off white and one in black and that's so far worked well for any project.

Now that you have all the background you’re ready to topstitch your knits! You don’t need a fancy machine but I do recommend a few supplies. This method can be used on hems or to finish a neck or arm binding.



HOW TO TOPSTITCH KNIT FABRIC

SUPPLIES

2 spools regular thread (You don't need to buy to full spools of the regular, just wind up a bobbin with the regular thread to use as the second "spool.")

Wooly Nylon Thread (aka fluff thread)

Twin Sewing Needle

Sewing Machine with Walking Foot
(or if you don’t have a walking foot, some strips of tissue paper as discussed above)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. By hand, loosely wind wooly nylon thread around bobbin.

2. Attach walking foot to machine and insert twin needle. Thread machine according to your machine’s manual.

3. Set your machine to a straight stitch. (I like to use a 3.0 stitch length, just slightly longer than normal.)

4. If you are starting at the edge of the garment, place a strip of tissue paper under the garment with a tail hanging out the back. (This will help prevent the fabric being pushed down into the machine by the needle.) Place garment under needle, lower presser foot and stitch.


5. At end of stitching, raise presser foot, pinch garment at stitching line and pull away from the machine about 8 inches. Cut thread leaving a 4-5 inch tail. Gently pull the ends of the top threads to the wrong side and tie in a knot with bobbin thread. Trim ends. Repeat with threads at beginning of stitching. (This will secure the threads and create a clean look on the right side of the garment.)

I hope these tips will help you in your sewing adventures. And remember it's ok if your topstitching isn't perfect. Mine rarely is! If you want more info on sewing with knits I recommend a couple of books that have really helped me: Sew U Home Stretch by Wendy Mullin and The Colette Guide to Sewing Knits by Alyson Clair. Do you have any tips or tricks for stitching knits? Please share in the comments. Happy sewing!

credit: sewdiy.com

DIY TUTORIAL – PLEATED BUTTON FRONT SKIRT

The pleated skirt is one of my all time favorite things to make. It's basically just a rectangle with lots of folds (aka pleats) attached to a waistband. I've shared a tutorial for making a pleated skirt before but I thought I would take it one step farther and show you how to make one with a button band in the front. You don't need a pattern and I've done all the math for you. Read on and find out how to make one yourself.




This tutorial provides measurements for a fully pleated skirt. If you only want a few pleats or don't have a lot of fabric, just cut the front and back widths smaller than the given measurements but still larger than your waistband. For this skirt I used a 1 inch gingham and made a pleat every 1 inch.




HOW TO DIY A PLEATED BUTTON FRONT SKIRT

Supplies:

Fabric (about 2 yards)
Interfacing
5-6 buttons for exterior
1 button for interior waistband
1 slide style hook and eye

NOTES: Seam allowance is .5 inch. Hem allowance is 1.5 inches.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Step 1: Take some measurements. You need to figure out the finished waistband width and the finished skirt length. First, measure around your waist where you want the waistband of the skirt to sit. If you're not sure about ease, measure the waistband of a skirt that you like the fit of. Next, measure how long you want the skirt to be. Now write those numbers down before you forget.

Step 2: I made a handy-dandy chart for you so you don't have to do a bunch of calculations. Find your waist measurement in the far left column and read across to the right for the width dimensions of the waistband, front and back pieces. You can click on the image to make to bigger. For example, if you have a waistband measurement of 32 inches and length of 36 inches, you will need to cut the following:

Waistband: 34.5 x 4 inches (cut one from fabric and one interfacing)

Back: 49 x 36 inches (cut one)

Fronts: 24.25 x 36 inches (cut two)

Interfacing for button bands: 24.25 x 3 inches (cut two)



Step 3: First, fuse interfacing to waistband. Then fuse button band interfacing to front of skirt .5 inch from raw edge. Fold seam allowance (.5 inch) to wrong side and press. Then fold again 1 inch, dividing button band in half.



Topstitch in place. I like to topstitch .25 inch from the folded edge then do a double line of stitching next to the edge of the button band. Use the guides on your presser feet to keep the stitching lines parallel.

Tip: If your fabric is being uncooperative, you can use glue to stick down the button band before topstitching. This check fabric is kind of cheap not was getting wonky. A quick swipe of glue really helped keep it in place.



Step 4: With right sides together, stitch front pieces to back at side seams. Finish seams



Step 5: Fold waistband in half lengthwise right sides together. On one end, mark 1.5 inch from finished edge for tab overlap on left side. Stitch from folded edge, pivot at corner and stitch to marking. On other end stitch from fold to .5 inch before edge.



Step 6: Pin pleats of desired direction and width to one edge of waistband. Make sure to place tab end on right side when looking at the wrong side of fabric (see below photo). Baste and then stitch in place.




Turn in raw edge of waistband. Stitch in place by hand or machine. I prefer to stitch in the ditch from the right side, just catching the waistband and holding it in place.



Step 7: Overlap front of skirt with tab end of waistband on the bottom. Mark where you want the buttonholes to be placed. Make buttonholes and attach buttons to button band. If the buttons aren't too bulky (like these ones), I like to use my sewing machine to attach the buttons. It's kind of scary the first time but so fast.




Attach hook and eye to tab overlap. On tab overlap stitch a buttonhole sized to the inner waistband button. Attach the inner waistband button invisibly by hand.

Step 8: Hem skirt. 



And that's it! You have a classic skirt all ready to hit the town.




I love this skirt so much. I feel like I need to hop on a plane to Paris and cavort along the Champs-Elysees. I'm wearing it here with my low-back Nettie bodysuit. The bodysuit has no match in creating a smooth line at a fitted waistband. I hope that you enjoy this tutorial and find it useful. Happy Sewing!

Learn to Sew a Patchwork Quilt Kit

As I absorbed all of these new rules, everything from tiled floors to city maps became an inspiration for a potential quilt. I began to see the world differently, and my quilt-making journey had begun!



I am absolutely thrilled to now pass on to beginner quilters the knowledge Joelle passed on to me. Our Learn to Sew a Patchwork Quilt Kit for Beginners walks you through every step of the quilt-making process, from cutting your first pieces to sewing on the last inch of binding. The Kit comes in four beautiful palettes and gives you instructions for four different layout options. It also comes with all the fabric, batting, thread, pins and needles you’ll need to make your first quilt!



If you know how to thread your sewing machine and to sew in a straight line, you are ready to get started. I hope you enjoy the journey as much as I have! -Molly
Materials






Our Learn to Sew a Patchwork Quilt Kit includes…
Six ½-yard pieces of 100% cotton fabric in six colors for the patchwork squares and binding. Choose from four pretty palettes, shown above, clockwise from top left: Coral, Cloud, Canyon, and Lemongrass.
1 yard of 100% cotton fabric for the backing fabric
Two 110-yard spools of 100% cotton thread
A 36 x 46-inch piece of 100% cotton batting in a thin weight
A hand-sewing needle
Straight patchwork pins
Curved safety pins
A “color catcher” for laundering
A full-color instructional booklet (included in the Kit and also available separately)

You’ll also need…



A Rotary Cutting Tool Kit, which includes…
A rotary cutter
A 12½-inch square rotary cutting ruler
A 6½ x 24½-inch rotary cutting ruler
A large rotary cutting mat
Size

Finished Dimensions: 32 x 40 inches

- 

credit: purlsoho.com

DIY | ANTHROPOLOGIE RUFFLED SKIRT TUTORIAL | Al Borj

Here it finally is – the anthropologie inspired skirt tutorial! There are two ways to do this. One is to make the whole skirt yourself using a knit fabric, and the other is to take an existing pencil or slim a-line skirt you already have and add the ruffles to it. If you choose to do the latter, simply skip to the ruffle steps below.

What You Need:

– About a yard of knit fabric, depending on your size (see step 1 for details). This will be the main fabric – mine was grey.

– Two contrasting fabrics, about 1/4 to 1/8 each.

I made this skirt have a half lining to it because the knit was so thin. So, I had extra fabric along the inside.

Step 1: Measure around the widest part of your hips. Add 2 to that measurement. This is w. Also, measure how long you want the skirt to be, and how long you want the extra lining material to be – usually just enough to cover your rear is good- and add it to itself. This is L. Next, cut out two strips of skirt measuring L by w.
Step 2: Mark where your length measurement of the skirt ends (so you should have a mark between the extra lining fabric you added and the actual length you want your skirt to be). Fold the fabric at that point, so you wind up with a fold at the waistband, the normal skirt on one side, and the lining part on the other. Do this on both pieces of fabric, and then pin them together so the lining part is on the OUTSIDE.

Step 3: You might want to curve the top of the skirt, depending on where you want your skirt to sit. I wanted mine to sit on my waist, so I curved it along the hips a bit – with the lining still pinned and the skirt folded (because you’ll want the lining curved as well). Now, simply sew the sides together on your two pieces of fabric, and you’ll wind up with your main skirt piece. Now turn the skirt right side out, and you’re onto the ruffles!

Step 4: Cut contrasting fabric number 1 into strips that are 1.5 times as long as the skirt is around (you may need to sew multiple strips together). Gather this strip, pin, and sew along the bottom of the skirt along the right side. Don’t worry, the raw edges will be hidden by the next ruffle.



Step 5: Cut a strip of contrasting fabric #2 so that it is the same length as the skirt width (all around). Gather it, then pin it starting about 1/3 of the way away from the side seam. Pin it all around the skirt, stopping about the same distance from the seam on the back side. Sew it in place.



Step 6: Now cut a strip 1.5 times the skirt (I’m just going to call the measurement around the skirt ‘the skirt’ now… ) of the original skirt material. Pin it onto the skirt, slanting it up over the contrast ruffle you just did, like shown in the picture below. You want to make sure it still covers all of the seams of the lower ruffle but slopes up subtly. Sew it on!


Step 7: Next is another partway ruffle! Ruffle a strip of contrast #1 that is about the same length as ‘the skirt’, and sew it on starting a little closer to the side seam than the white ruffle was. Once again, slope it up so it follows the line of the previous ruffle.


Step 8: Here is your final ruffle! Get another strip of the original skirt fabric that is 1.5 times the ‘skirt length’ and ruffle and sew it around. However, this time you will pin it facing UP, as shown in the horrible blurry picture below. Make sure you pin it quite close to the previous ruffle, as it will fold over (to hide the seam) and lose some of it’s height.



Now, just flip the top ruffle down and iron. Ta da!











credits to: rufflesandrosescrafts.blogspot

DIY | PINK TIE DYED GIFT BAGS | Al Borj

These hand made tie dyed gift bags are so much fun to make. And you can use them for so many things!

I used some white linen, pre-washed it and cut some 8 x 20 inch strips. One for each of the three bags I made.



I sewed the bags using French seams. Since I was dying these bags, I wanted them to only have one layer.

To make a french seam, fold the fabric length wise with the nice side of the fabric out. Sew a 1/4 inch seam along each of the sides, then cut the seams back to 1/8th. Turn the bags inside out (Outside in really), then pin the seams and stitch two 1/4 inch seams along the sides, closing off the raw edge of your previous 1/8 seams into these two new seams as seen above.



Double fold and stitch the top edge of the bag, but leave an opening of about half an inch by one of the side seams. This will be for the draw string later. Turn the bag inside out again and you now have the finished bag and when you look inside, you will see no raw fabric edges. Everything will look nice and finished.



I scrunched up the three bags and added two rubber bands to each as you see above. The opening is toward the top. Then I prepared my dye bath. I used 1.5 gallon hot water, a cup of fine salt and a third of a bottle of Rit Pink Fuchsia liquid color. I was going for a bit of an ombre effect, so I dipped most of the bag so a little bit more than the top most rubber band was covered, and after 3 seconds lifted the bag half way out.



I lifted it out past the first rubber band, then held it there for a minute, then lifted it passed the second rubber band and let just the bottom of the bag sit in the dye for another couple minutes. This gave me the layered color effect I was going for.



I transferred the bags to some cold water in the next sink and rinsed them. Then I took off the rubber bands and gave the bags a soapy warm wash, rinsed, let them dry and ironed them.

I made a label for the mason jars and a tag for the bags. Since the candy is strawberry colored, I matched the words ‘berry’ and ‘handmade’ to this color. I used my own handwriting for those two words. I printed them out on white card stock to get the white text on the pink labels. 



I ran some hemp cord through the bags and added a tag to each draw-string, then tied a knot. I just love how these bags came out! You can use them for all the things. 




I used mine to wrap home made berry candy.                   




I gave these out as hostess gifts during Christmas time. 



credits to: ahomeforcrafts.com