Sewing Tips & Tricks | 6 Cool Things You Can Make From Old Jeans

6 Cool Things You Can Make From Old Jeans

-   What could be more American than a pair of blue jeans? We love them here in the U.S., but they have also become a worldwide phenomenon, and now most people in developed nations own at least a couple of pairs (not to mention jean jackets, denim skirts and the like). But along with all that denim love comes plenty of denim waste; the upshot is that this tough fabric can be recycled (into insulation or other fabric) and upcycled, into all sorts of things besides clothes. Jake and Maya's upcycled denim challenge is just one of the most recent ways fashion folk have been encouraging us to reuse our old jeans, creatively. 

There are tons of ideas (seriously, so many!) on Jake and Maya's Pinterest page; here are my favorites. 

Messy kids? Or a cowboy- or Western-theme party? These placemats would be perfect for either one. 

This cool denim-upholstered chair looks not only comfy, but one that could take some rough-and-tumble wear. 

Of course you can make all sorts of bags from old jeans, but these denim lunch bags are way more stylish (and washable and reusable) compared to paper bags, so they both reuse (the jeans) and reduce (waste). 

A necklace made from denim? Who would have thought that could be so pretty? 

Hip, creative storage (and tough too); these storage pockets could work in an office or child's room. 

If you don't think a whale made from denim is one of the cutest things ever, I'm a little concerned about your personal cute-meter settings

Read more: http://www.mnn.com/lifestyle/recycling/blogs/6-cool-things-you-can-make-from-old-jeans#ixzz3hMIELDOs

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DIY Tutorial: Easy Tote Bag Tutorial

Easy Tote Bag Tutorial 

I’ve said it before and I will say it again-I love making a new bag! I make them ALL the time! This easy tote bag tutorial was something that I created for a friend to carry all of her things to church. It could be used for anything. It’s large and roomy and easy to make and with the two fabrics you can mix and match to make it really fun!

It’s got one fabric on the top, another on the bottom and I did a third inside.

Easy Tote Bag Tutorial:

Supplies Needed:

• Fabric-Canvas or Duck. I used 3 fabrics-one for the top, one for the bottom and one for the inside. You need about 1/3 yard of your bottom fabric and about 1/2 yard each of the top and inner fabrics
• (Optional-fusible fleece interfacing to line the straps. You will only need about 1/4 yard for this.)

Cutting Guide:

• From your bottom fabric cut 2 pieces that are 17 inches wide by 8 inches long
• From your top fabric cut 2 pieces that are 17 inches wide by 12 inches long
• Wait to cut your inner fabric
• For your straps (from whichever fabric you prefer), cut 2 pieces that are 31 inches by 4 inches
• (Optional-if you feel like you want to straps sturdy, line them with a fusible interfacing like fusible fleece)

Instructions:

Cut out the pieces mentioned above.

Place top fabric on the bottom fabric with right sides together and sew them together.

Do this for both pieces and then iron the seam flat.

With one of your pieces that you just sewed, place it on your inner fabric and use it as a guide to cut out the inner fabric to match what you just created. Cut 2 of your inner fabric.

Sew the two inner pieces together around both sides and the bottoms with right sides facing.

Sew both of your outer pieces together around both sides and the bottom with right sides facing.

Now you are going to create box corners on these. To do this, grab the bottom corner of the bag and turn it so that that the fabric is laying like this:

You will then sew a seam across the top tip of that triangle a few inches down from the tip:

Then snip off that tip:

Do this with both outer corners and both inner corners.

Set these aside while we make the straps.

Take your long pieces and fold them in half the long way with right sides together and sew up the long side.

Turn right side out (this will be a little tricky and time consuming. I use a chopstick or pair of scissors to help push the fabric though. And I watch a good show while I do it.)

Press straps flat with seam in the center of the back:

Now, turn your inner fabric right side out but leave your outer fabric inside out. Put the inner bag down inside the outer bag. Slide your straps inside the bag in between the two fabrics, making sure that the seam on the back of the fabric is facing the inside of the bag and pin everything in place like this so that the fabric is even all the way around and the strap ends are between your inner and outer layers of fabric on both sides and have the ends poking out slightly.

Sew all the way around the top of the bag leaving a 4 inch opening to turn it. *Make sure that opening is not where a strap is. You need to get those sewn in place.

Turn bag right side out and tuck inside into outside.

Press the whole bag. Fold the opening in and press that as well so that it looks just the same as the part that was sewn.

Top stitch all the way around the top of the bag. This will also close your opening.

And throw some stuff in your bag and hit the town!

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Sewing Tips and Tricks: How to Remove Stitch Marks From Fabric

How to remove stitch marks from fabric

With The Refashioners 2015 juuuuust around the corner,  and this years community challenge running in parallel, there may be just a few people this August refashioning shirts! I thought, what better time to share this little technique  for getting rid of stitch marks! The kind you get when you unpick a hem or  dart, or remove a pocket.; and simple pressing just isn’t cutting it.  Welll…it is possible to minimise and, in some cases, completely remove those marks. It’s not a complete cure in all cases  as it depends on a few different factors. BUT, I think you’ll agree from the before and after shots, it’s worth a try, right?

Here’s what I’m talking about. This is a piece of cotton fabric where I was trying out some Sashiko embroidery. Wasn’t happy with it, so unpicked it in order to start again. One problem….stitch marks!! (I’m using this as a sample for this how to as the weave is larger and easier to photograph, but this applies to machine and hand stitching alike.)

Here it is after a simple press. Better. But not great! What happens with holes is the weft and warp threads of the fabric get moved out of alignment as the needle passes through the fabric and they stay that way even once the thread is removed. If you look closely at the first two pics (tap to enlarge and zoom in) you can see the individual threads are skewed around the stitch holes.

Now for the secret to erasing those stitch marks! Use your nail…

…or a spoon. With a firm pressure appropriate to the sturdiness of your fabric, drag it across the weft (left to right then right to left) and the warp of the fabric (up and down) Press with steam and repeat 2 to 3 times.

See the difference? The repeated dragging action manipulates those warp and weft threads back into place and the steam fixes them there. Clever huh? But we’re not quite done…

Flip the fabric over and repeat on the other side. Drag your nail/spoon across left and right, then up and down then press with steam…

All done!

Quite a difference huh? This technique will work on most wovens to a greater or lesser degree depending on two factors. The fineness and weave of the fabric itself AND how long those stitches have been in there. In some instances the fabric will be too delicate or the stitches will have been in too long (I’m talking existing garments type long!) for this to be completely effective. BUT in a lot of cases this will help erase all memories of that bodged stitching (we all bodge seams right?!) so no-one will ever know 

DIY Tutorial: The Triangle Maxi Dress: A Quick & Easy Sewing Tutorial

 The Triangle Maxi Dress: A Quick & Easy Sewing Tutorial 

Maxi dresses are showing up everywhere this summer. Ladies are wearing them on the beach as an easy, breezy cover-up, at backyard barbecues for carefree style and as a cool, comfy day dresses while out shopping. Perhaps that’s why sewing dresses, specifically maxi dresses, remains such a popular summer sewing project.

And, because now is the time when you’d rather be outside wearing a dress instead of being inside sewing one, I came up with a simple maxi dress pattern that’s as easy to make as a summer breeze!

Add a summertime staple to your wardrobe with this maxi dress sewing tutorial!

Granted, a maxi dress is really nothing more than a longer version of a simple dress, so any regular dress can be “maxi-ed.” Silhouettes are generally quite straight-forward, making them quite easy to make.

Here is one that can be made in a matter of hours. The best part? No commercial pattern is needed. Three basic body measurements are all it takes to draft this pattern. One singular pattern piece is used to cut four equal panels that make up the dress.

Soft lightweight fabrics like jersey knits or airy woven cottons make for a comfortable dress that will drape beautifully over the body, no matter your shape and size. You can even scale up your fabric choice to make it a lovely evening dress for a night out on the town.

The dress is based on the principle of joining four equally drafted triangular shaped pattern pieces that come together at the shoulders and falls gracefully to the hemline. To give it a bit more shape, cinch in the waist with an elastic casing or wrap a fashionable belt around the waist.

What you will need:

• Some craft paper to draft the pattern, pencil, rulers
• Measuring tape to take the basic body measurements
• Approximately 3-4 yards (depends on individuals measurements) of lightweight, fluid fabric
• Matching thread
• Some type of closure at the shoulders such as buttons, hooks and eyes, or decorative rings

1. Take the following body measurements

• Measure your body from the midpoint at the shoulder down to the bust point.
• Measure the circumference of the bust at the fullest point — not too snuggly!
• At the center front, measure the distance from the bustline to your desired hem length

2. Now grab a length of craft paper 3-4 inches longer than the sum of measurement a. and c.; and at least 18″ wide.

3. Draw a line down the center through the length of the paper. This will be the pattern’s grainline and centerpoint. Approximately 2″ from the top edge of the paper draw a line perpendicular to the centerpoint line. From this crosswise line’s centerpoint, mark a dot equal to measurement a. (1)

4. Next, draw a perpendicular line equal to measurement b. plus 2″ for ease, with equal measurement on each side of the centerpoint. (2)

5. From that point, mark another dot equal to measurement c.(3) This is the hemline.

6. Using a skirt circumference of approximately 72-82″, divide the number by four. Using that number, draw a line perpendicular at the hemline point to represent the bottom width of the pattern piece. (4)

7. Add a hem allowance of 2″ and draw another crosswise line. (5)

8. Now connect the dots and lines as shown in the illustration to form the shape of the final pattern piece.

9. Once that’s done, add seam allowances to the outer edge of the pattern — I used ½” seam allowances.

10. Next, draw a crosswise line approximately 2″ below the bustline. This will form the bottom edge of the facings that will be used for the dress bodice.

11. Duplicate the pattern to make two pattern pieces.

12. Layout the patterns and cut. You should have four long dress panels and four facing pieces. If desired, cut out interfacing for the four facing sections.

Now for the fun part, constructing the dress:

Wrong side                                                                        Right side

13. Join all four panels together from the bustline point to the hem. Finish seams as desired — I serged the edges.

14. If using interfacing, fuse or sew them to each facing section. Join the four facing pieces together from the bustline point to the bottom edge. Finish the facing’s bottom edge as desired — again, I serged the edge.

15. With right sides together, join the facing to the dress stitching around each bodice triangle section.

Turn and press each point in place.

16. Connect the shoulder points with either buttons, hooks and eyes or decorative rings.

Hem the dress using a 1″ double rolled hem.

And that’s it! The next step? Go out and show off your beautiful finished work!

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DIY Tutorial | How to Alter a Bodice to Create a Vintage Look | AL Borj

How to Alter a Bodice to Create a Vintage Look

Vintage looks can be fun and flirty, with lovely details that you might not find on contemporary patterns. However actual vintage patterns can have their limitations. They can be costly or not available in your size, and you may already have a standard darted dress bodice that fits you to perfection.

Learn how to alter a bodice and create a vintage look that is just your size.

With these steps, you can change a darted front bodice into one that has a waist yoke and gathers instead of darts.

Step 1: Start with a basic bodice.

For this style start with a basic bodice front where the horizontal bust dart has been rotated to the waist dart. You can buy current patterns with this style of bodice and even find versions with cup-sizing, which is a great feature and saves time on fit adjustments.

Step 2: Design your seam line.

Start with creating your waist yoke seam line on the basic bodice front pattern piece. Depending on your torso length it may be shorter or longer, here the seam line is 3 inches from the bottom stitch line. It is curved upwards at the side as this is a feature seen on a lot of retro looks and creates a flattering line on the body.

Step 3: Adjust the yoke.

Adjust the portion of the dart that is in the waist yoke section which will be folded out. Before you do that, tighten the yoke by enlarging the dart section by 1/4 inch on either side as shown. A waist yoke will hug the midriff more closely than a dart that angles up from the waist so that is the reason this adjustment is needed.

Step 4: Create the yoke and add seam allowance.

Time to cut on your newly designed seam line. Pin closed the dart portion at the new lines you have added which tightened up that dart. Add a seam allowance on the cut edge and that pattern piece is done. Be sure to cut this piece on the center fold. 

Step 5: Adjust the upper bodice pattern piece.

Adjust the upper bodice piece by adding a small amount on the bottom edge. Perhaps 1/4 – 1/2 inch at the center front tapering to zero at the side seam. The reason for this addition is to allow for the now longer distance from the bust point to the waist, since the bodice with a flat waist yoke is a bit longer you want to have enough room in the bust area. If you have a small bust this may not be needed and a full bust will definitely want to add this, as you can always adjust and take away when sewing the garment. 

Here are the finished pattern pieces. Now the upper bodice is wider than the waist yoke, and that difference will be taken up with gathers at the location of the darts. 

Finishing the bodice

To prepare for sewing the bodice front pieces together, stay stitch the upper edge of the waist yoke to prevent it from stretching out. Run some long stitches across the location of the darts on the upper bodice that you will use to gather those sections. 

The bodice back can have a waist yoke as well, and the back pattern pieces are easier to adjust as the back is a flat piece unlike the bodice front. You won’t need to adjust the dart width, just draw the design line, separate the two sections, fold out the dart in the waist yoke and then add the seam allowances.